VAMOS COMER: A LISBON FOOD GUIDE!

Me enjoying a glass of rose in the countryrard at Blue Restaurant in Lisbon while I await my dinner

Me enjoying a glass of rose in the countryrard at Blue Restaurant in Lisbon while I await my dinner

The familiar delectable scent of melted cheese filled my nostrils as our server dropped another dish off at our table. We were at Taberna Bairro do Avillez in Lisbon having dinner and although we were only three dishes in, Adam and I were already in foodie heaven.

This past September, my boyfriend Adam and I ventured to Portugal to see if it could live up to its social media hype. One thing that took me by surprise was how much Lisbon had to offer beyond the seductive smell of freshly baked Pastel De Nata (Portuguese Custard Tarts) and the sizzling sounds of succulent Piri-Piri chicken – two popular food highlights.

Adam appeared out of nowhere with this Pineapple drink while we were exploring LX Factory - an outdoor market in Lisbon.

Adam appeared out of nowhere with this Pineapple drink while we were exploring LX Factory - an outdoor market in Lisbon.

Now, it’s not unusual for Adam and I to go all out on food while on vacation and this trip was no different. As a matter of fact, we have the gluttonous habit of following one dinner with another, dubbing the act a ‘bang bang’, LOL! While in Lisbon, not only did we eat at the majority of places on our pre-planned list, but also found a couple new restaurants in Lisbon we added along the way. Needless to say, when Adam and I claim to have ‘eaten our way through Lisbon’, we feel the statement is completely justified.

So here we are, one month post-trip and Adam and I are still talking about our favourite dishes. Together, we compiled the ultimate ‘Lisbon Food Hit List’ of all our favourite restaurants in Lisbon as well as cafes, take-away counters, and bars so that that next time you find yourself in Lisbon you can dine like you’ve got two hollow legs too!


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Inside Taberna Bairro do Avillez - one of the best restaurants in Lisbon

Inside Taberna Bairro do Avillez - one of the best restaurants in Lisbon

- LISBON RESTAURANTS -

Prior to our trip, I had read a lot about Michelin star chef Jose Avillez. Said to be one of the best chefs in Portugal, dining at one of his Lisbon restaurants during our time in in town was an absolute no-brainer. Open for lunch and dinner, Taberna Bairro do Avillez, Jose Avillez’s most casual restaurant offers Portuguese cuisine with an Avillez twist! There wasn’t a dish that Adam and I didn’t like and even though we were full, we could not stop eating. My favourite dish was the Alfachinha with crispy cod topped with garlic mayonnaise and a spicy tomato sauce, while Adam favoured the uniqueness of the octopus in a kimchi sauce, with garlic and sweet potato. Overall, this was both our favourite meal and if you are going to go to one restaurant in Lisbon, this is it!

Hands down my favourite DISH of the entire trip was actually a sweet potato gnocchi I had at my hotel’s restaurant. Recently renovated, Blue Restaurant has a chic, relaxed atmosphere inspired by the city’s blue sky and azure waters. Further, this Lisbon restaurant has the cutest little pink courtyard where Adam and I chose to enjoy our breakfast daily. Although the menu does change, all items on the menu are made of locally-sourced fresh seasonal ingredients to insure the highest quality of flavours. Like I said, my favourite dish from the ENTIRE TRIP was the gnocchi I had here. I tried to go back for it before I left but unfortunately it is only available on their dinner menu (a heartbreaking realization for me). Regardless, if they ever take it off their menu I will cry! Yes, it’s that good

For those interested in learning more about new age Portuguese cuisine, I would definitely recommend a restaurant in Lisbon called Delfina. Tucked in a corner of Praça do Município, inside the Alma Lusa hotel, Delfina is a fine dining yet casual Lisbon restaurant that serves up fresh and seasonal Portuguese-inspired cuisine along with a fabulous selection of local wines. Adam and I ate here on our second night and practically had to roll ourselves home. All the seafood dishes we had including the Bulho Pato clams, sautéed clams in garlic, olive oil and coriander; Fettuccini Alla Pescatore with Bulho Pato shrimp, clams, and mussels; and the Codfish A Brash, a traditional codfish dish with frayed matchstick potatoes and egg, were all exquisite and I unapologetically helped myself to the lions share.

If you don’t eat Piri-Piri chicken while in Portugal, did you even really go? Frangasqueira Nacional is a small restaurant in Lisbon with only a couple seats that, if you aren’t specifically looking for it, you would pass right by. Mostly intended for takeout, this small Lisbon restaurant has an even smaller menu of rice, a few side options and the clear star of the show, spicy Piri-Piri chicken two ways - baked and grilled. Adam and I ordered one of each along with a class of wine and sat at the only table they had outside not talking as we devoured our chicken. We enjoyed our meal here so much that we tried to go back later in our trip, but unfortunately it was closed. This not only checked every box for me when it came to fantastic Piri-Piri experiences, but it was also one of the cheapest meals we had (8€ per person) the entire trip!


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Enjoying a beautiful glass of red Portuguese wine and a charcuterie of meat and cheese from By The Wine in Lisbon

Enjoying a beautiful glass of red Portuguese wine and a charcuterie of meat and cheese from By The Wine in Lisbon

A great find by Adam, By The Wine was a cool wine bar we went to in the Chiado area after dinner one night. The atmosphere was lively and both the light from the restaurant and the groups of people sipping glasses of wine poured out onto the sidewalk. The wine list was (as expected) very extensive and reasonably priced, but the thing that caught us by surprise was their large selection of food offerings. After ordering our wine at the counter, Adam and I watched one chef created a large charcuterie board of Iberian Bellota ham and a selection of cheese followed by a small salmon ceviche dish, all the while growing hungry once more. We didn’t order more food that night but we did come back for a proper experience later on in the trip and highly recommend this Lisbon restaurant be on your list of places to try, or at the very least, to pause and enjoy a glass of wine.

Time Out Market Lisbon

Time Out Market Lisbon

- LISBON FOOD MARKET -

The first place Adam and I checked out while in Lisbon was Time Out Market Lisbon. Essentially a food hall featuring forty of the best restaurants in Lisbon as well as delis, cafes, and food vendors, Time Out Market Lisbon is the perfect one-stop shop for those who want a quick overview of the food in Lisbon. Even though each restaurant can only offer a handful of their signature dishes you don’t feel limited in choices. Adam and I loved having the ability to pick and choose from different stalls and customize our own little lunch menu. In terms of drinks, on top of vendors selling a small selection of alcohol there is a wine shop if you want to buy a bottle or a bar in the middle of the food hall for something more specific. Further, if you are looking for a fun activity to do while in town, cooking classes are also available at Time Out Market Lisbon.

Roman style pizza in Lisbon via Pizzeria Romana Al Taglio

Roman style pizza in Lisbon via Pizzeria Romana Al Taglio

- TAKE AWAY RESTAURANTS IN LISBON -

One take-away restaurant in Lisbon Adam and I quickly became obsessed with was Pizzeria Romana Al Taglio. We had found this small, Roman style pizza shop on our way back downhill from watching the sunset at Castelo De Sao Jorge, and even though we were on our way to dinner, the smell of freshly baked pizza stopped us right in our tracks. “What’s one slice?...” we reasoned with ourselves, “especially if we split it!” And boy did it deliver! With over 10 different styles of pizza to choose from at any given time, all generously dressed with toppings and offering an impeccable combinations of flavours, this little gem hit the spot every time. If you are ever looking for a quick bite of food in Lisbon, cheap snack or are just craving really good pizza, this place is definitely worth seeking out. 

- PASTEL DE NATA CAFES -

A Lisbon food guide would not be complete without a couple Pastel De Nata recommendations and prior to the trip, a friend had recommended Adam and I check out Pastelaria Batalha while in Lisbon. Previously they had done a Pastel De Nata baking class there and said their tarts were some of the best. Eager to sign up ourselves, Adam and I ventured there for a coffee and a tart on our first day in town to see if it lived up to its hype – and it did! Not only did I love the cute cafe vibe it had going on but also the warm and approachable nature the owner had despite having clout as offering one of the best Pastel’s in Lisbon. I guess you can say after our baking class I grew attached to this place and its story. I loved learning about the history of these enchanting treats, what characteristics makes a good one, and how to make them at home, which if you ask me is the best souvenir you could bring home!

By the time Adam and I had got around to finally trying Manteigaria (located across the square from Pastelaria Batalha) we had not only eaten our fair share of these delectable desserts, but learned to make them in our baking class. Having walked by the cafe several times during our visit to Lisbon, I vividly remember my desire on the last day to make sure we tried it before heading to the airport. We still had a couple hours before our flight and the small cafe in Chiado was only a 10 minute walk away. So after quickly organizing our things and dropping our luggage at reception, Adam and I ran up the street for one last tart. The place did not disappoint. As a matter of fact I would say it was the best Pastel De Nata in Lisbon I had eaten. Perfectly cooked with a flaky crust that melted in your mouth along with the sweetest, creamiest, custard filling to compliment it. My only regret was not trying this place sooner.


That’s it! If you have any questions about the food in Lisbon, Lisbon food market or comments/recommendations for restaurants in Lisbon you think should be added to this list, please feel free to hit me up in the comments section below, otherwise VAMOS COMER! I hope you enjoyed the food in Lisbon as much as we did!


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PUNTA MITA, MEXICO

I recently (as you may of already noticed via my Instagram) went on a week long vacation to Punta Mita, a small village located 10 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. In the last 10 years Punta Mita has seen a lot of economic growth especially due to a huge private development that houses numerous estates, clubhouses, private restaurants, beach clubs, a medical centre and two luxury hotels. Although it may take me light years till I can afford to own a house there, Punta Mita is probably as close to heaven as I have ever been. Except in this case only those who own a house, know someone who does or are a guest at one of the two luxury hotels can pass St Peter’s pearly white gates. Even the hotel accommodations come at quiet a hefty price tag of $1,000+ USD a night for the smallest casita. This place could not be more luxurious – the Prime Minister of Mexico goes on vacation there for heaven sake!

While most of us could only dream about going to a place like this, I miraculously was invited to come explore the private compound and share my experience with you. So here we go >>>----->

ACCOMMODATIONS

The St Regis is probably the most expensive hotel I have ever come across with rooms starting at over $5,000+ USD in high season. I cannot imagine what kind of top notch, heavenly services you get for that price tag however from my first impression of visiting and dinning there it is probably pretty spectacular. The hotel itself is gorgeous and you can tell no expense was spared when they designed it. The hotels signature restaurant Carolina offers a fine dining experience of the very best in contemporary Mexican cuisine. Using fresh local ingredients and uncompromised cooking techniques Carolina captures the hearts and souls (should I drop the heaven thing yet lol) of all who eat there. With signature dishes like ceviche, suckling pig, and quail tacos there is something for everyone’s palate.

The Four Seasons in Punta Mita is actually owned by Bill Gates. This Mexican oasis is absolutely picture perfect and exactly how you would imagine a beachfront hotel. With white-sand beaches and turquoise waters there is no wonder that the area features some of the best snorkeling, scuba diving, fishing, surfing and golf in the world.  Although I did not stay at The Four Season I did get to eat there! The Aramara restaurant in The Four Season features exquisite contemporary Asian cuisine made from the freshest product and seafood caught daily right off the shores of Punta Mita. With indoor and outdoor dining options Aramara offers zen-like touches to a wonderful dining experience. Get the crispy shrimp! They are unreal!

ACTIVITIES

The recently renovated Kupuri Beach Club is one of three intimate resident beach clubs that offers additional socializing, relaxation, and dining experiences for resident members and their guests. With valet parking, a concierge, spa services, an infinity pool, beach bar, water and fitness activities and of course lots of beach front – an afternoon at this beach club is an afternoon well spent.

Vista Paraiso offers a wide range of activities including ziplining, horseback riding and ATV tours. It is located about a 15-20 minute drive from Punta Mita. I went on a horseback riding tour through the small Mexican village of Higuera Blanca onto a small jungle trail and along a sunny beach. The ride lasted about an hour and a half and the horses were very well behaved. The ride is led by the ranch vaquero (that’s Mexican for cowboy – I say Mexican because I don’t think this is a word used in Spain) and is well documented by the resident ‘paparazzi’ who will print your photo at the end of the ride for a price.  I enjoyed myself at the ranch and everyone was very friendly however I would of probably preferred something a little more high pace like ATVing – ok I’m a bit of an adrenaline junkie, DON’T JUDGE!

Golfing in the Punta Mita estates is unreal! I may not be a very experienced golfer but the people I played with were and they were just as impressed by the 36 holes - Jack Nicklaus golf course as I was. The golf course and clubhouse is open to the residence of the estates and their guest as well as the St. Regis and The Four Season guests. Don’t get distracted by the ocean views and picturesque manicured landscapes because this course gets quiet difficult even for those well seasoned golfers. Check out this hole below!

The Pacífico, with eight holes directly facing or playing alongside the Pacific Ocean, features the “Tail of the Whale”, an optional par-three hole with the largest natural island green in the world.

I will admit that I am much more familiar with Tennis then I am golf which is why it is no surprise I found myself drawn to the Tennis Center in the Punta Mita estates. Nestled into a grove of palm trees the Tennis Center offers hard and soft sand filled synthetic grass courts to suit your preference and also features complimentary use of balls and shoes. Additionally, ice water and chilled hand towels that have a hint of lemon freshness are placed courtside to help you cool off after a game. Now that is classy! Rackets are available to rent for $8 so no need to lug yours all the way to Mexico!

If you win the lottery or are looking for a great luxury vacation Punta Mita is the perfect destination for you. The area is very safe and family friendly and offers tons of activities including great surfing (I wanted to surf so bad but there wasn’t enough time). If you’re in the market to purchase a vacation home or apartment I would urge you to consider looking at this development! The St. Regis and Four Seasons do maintain and rent properties in the compound on behalf of the owners when they are not occupied so there are also potential income benefits available to investing in paradise! So what are you waiting for? GO!


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A TRAVEL GUIDE TO TODOS SANTOS, MEXICO'S BAJA CALIFORNIA

Photo Credit: Louis Wu @ A private Hacienda in Todos Santos, Baja California Mexico

A TRAVEL GUIDE

I recently took a trip to Todos Santos Mexico in January and had an amazing time. It's a quaint little Mexican town full of artists, ex-pats, and hippies free to live their bohemian/low maintenance lifestyles in a small rural city an hour away from the commercialized Cabo San Lucas. Todos Santos has many draws including great beaches and the widely known Hotel California where this year’s Todos Santos Music Festival was held.


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Above Frankie The Band @ Todos Santos Music Festival - January 16 2016

MUSIC FESTIVAL

The Todos Santos Music Festival was created by Peter Buck of REM in 2012 and brought to life by The Hotel California as a way of bringing musicians together to make a difference in the community and support local charities.

BEACHES AND RESTAURANTS

Aside from the music festival the area is full of fun activities! There are both quiet and built-up beaches in and near Todos Santos where you can surf and boogyboard and many pleasant restaurants and cafes in town. There are also local food and artisan markets weekly and at sunset, you can occasionally go see the turtle release.

Above are photos from a turtle release on January 20th 2016

Tortugueros Las Playitas is an environmental conservation with a sea turtle focus whose mission is "to protect, conserve and replenish the fragile marine eco-systems of Baja California Sur, Mexico". On occasion when a nest has hatched they have a free viewing of the release at sunset. You are also able to adopt a nest for $40 USD and contribute to their cause. In exchange, they will send you photos of your nest once it hatches! Cute right!

Aside from the turtle release I recommend you go to La Esquina Cafe - a cute outdoor cafe and popular restaurant in Todos Santos that has a relaxing bohemian feel. Their menu consists of great options from healthy veggie shakes and smoothies to full breakfast and sandwiches all very reasonably priced. I had a breakfast enchilada (seen below) paired with a La Esquina Special (a fresh, local and organic fruit smoothie) which was delicious. On Wednesdays, they host a small outdoor market where locals sell their homemade loaves of bread, artisan leather goods, and even organic pesticides. When I went to the market they had a musician playing live music and people couldn't help but get up and dance while they waited for their breakfast. On Thursday evening they are also known to host a band and although I never had the chance to go I definitely would check it out next time I go back.

Above: Photos from La Esquina Cafe

I was so inspired by all the great food and culture of the area that I took advantage of the local markets and fresh ingredients to cook an authentic Mexican meal! I was able to find fresh chorizo at the market along with zucchini hearts (otherwise known as squash blossoms), fresh fish from the local fisherman and all the citrus fruits your heart could desire. In pursuit of my goal of a home-cooked Mexican-inspired meal, I made chorizo potato tacos with fresh guacamole, fried stuffed zucchini hearts, and fresh traditional Mexican ceviche! Also as a refresher, my friends came up with this delicious 'Mexican Screwdrivier' which had vodka, fresh orange juice, Cointreau, and a splash of fresh pomegranate juice! Perfect for sipping by the pool! All of these delicious dishes, which I encourage you to try making yourself, can be found under the Food & Drink section of my blog!

On top of all the great food, there are some hidden gems that I also want to share with you including this fabulous hidden beach that is so picturesque and great for bodyboarding. Off the highway, down a dirt road, and hidden behind an oasis of palm trees there lies a hidden, remote beach called Los Palmas. It’s a little tricky to get to so ask a local for directions just to be safe. When my friends and I went to this beach for the afternoon there were wild horses grazing along the oasis of palm trees. I do not recommend getting too close as they are wild but please enjoy them from a distance. This beach seemed practically deserted and is a great place to have a romantic picnic or bask in the cool ocean water and hot sun!

Above: Photos from Los Palmas beach just outside Todos Santos, Baja California Mexico.

Before I end this adventure I also have to tell you briefly about three more things! The first is called Tacos El Poblano which was my favorite little Tacoria restaurant in Todos Santos with the best Carne (pork and/or beef) Tacos I have ever had! Not to mention they were so cheap! It doesn't look like much of a spot from the outside but it is well known and loved by the locals. We ordered 40 tacos for our group when we went there and kept having to go back for more!

The second thing, which to be honest will require a bit of luck to find because we literally saw him on the side of the road, is a local Tamale cart! Since we were renting a hacienda close to town, we were told about this guy Tamales from an ex-pat we knew living down the road. She said if we see his cart to pull over and get as many as we can because they are so good and often sell out. So there we were, a week into our vacation coming back from a beautiful day at the beach and there he was with his cart going along the side of the road. Well of course we pulled our rental car over and bought a dozen Tamales. In hindsight, we wish we had bought more because we were unable to ever find him again. The tamales however were SO DELICIOUS! I also think they were less than $1 a piece which is ridiculous! If you happen to see someone with a cart selling tamales I urge you to stop and try one!

The third restaurant in Todos Santos that I wanted to share with you was a small Italian Pizzeria/Cafe called Caffe Todos Santos. I didn't have a chance to actually eat there but the back patio looked very quaint and they had an outdoor pizza oven. I stumbled upon this place while looking for pizza dough and was directed to this cafe by a local artist. I also bought some of their jams while I was there (I thoroughly enjoyed their fig jam) along with some fresh bread and of course the pizza dough. I took a look at their menu which appeared to have both Italian and Mexican dishes and although their prices may have been high for the area I would say they were traditional American standard pricing ($15-$22 for a main).

Above: Me Outside Caffe Todos Santos

Above: Me Outside Caffe Todos Santos

and so now I must go but before I do I will leave you with this....

On a dark desert highway, cool wind in my hair
Warm smell of colitas, rising up through the air
Up ahead in the distance, I saw a shimmering light
My head grew heavy and my sight grew dim
I had to stop for the night

- Hotel California, The Eagles


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