THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL GUIDE TO CARTAGENA, COLOMBIA

One of the many beautiful door ways in Cartagena, Colombia

If you are lucky you will one day find a place that fills you with wonder and happiness. A place that presents beauty around every new corner, can inspire you, and can make you feel a connection. For me, this place was Cartagena, Colombia.

Located on Colombia’s Caribbean coast, Cartagena is truly Colombia’s hidden jewel. It is a vibrant city full of colonial history, beautiful architecture, and warm, friendly people. It is a city that can both charm and surprise you. A place that feels so real, so well preserved, and so authentic to its history and culture. It is a place that I dreamed for many years to one day visit, but no matter how much research or prep I did prior to going, I could never of imagined how truly beautiful and wonderful my experience would be.

This past October I spent four amazing days in Cartagena with Copa Airlines and wished I could of stayed on longer. If you are planning a trip to Cartagena, I am both super jealous and excited for you! If I ever have the opportunity to organize and curate a trip back with a group of my friends, here is a list of places, activities, and restaurants that I discovered and would want to share with them.

Things To Do In Cartagena, Colombia

Entrance to The Walled City

The Walled City (or the Old City) - One of the most beautiful and historic parts of Cartagena is the walled city (essentially a city within the city). During the colonial era a wall was built around the wealthy area of the city to protect the homes of Spanish aristocrats and wealthy businessman from Caribbean pirates. Today the wall still stands and is an important symbol of not just the city but of the entire country. Most of the architecture in the walled city has been well preserved or restored and features bright colourful building facades with large beautiful doors and sprawling bougainvillea trees. It is completely walkable, pedestrian-friendly and is where you will find some of the most beautiful boutique hotels, restaurants, and shops.

If you can afford to stay in one of the many beautiful boutique hotels located in the walled city I definitely recommend it. If you can not, I would still try and jump on a walking tour or take time over the course of you trip to explore and hang out in the area. If you are a photography lover there are endless opportunities to capture beautiful photos in this area and you will absolutely love it!


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Getsemani Neighbourhood - Once a predominantly poor neighbourhood, Getsemani was the epicentre for the Colombian independent revolution in Cartagena. Today it is known as the trendy, bohemian part of town where you can find lots of hostels, bars, cafes, and young people hanging out. Located only a ten minute walk from the Walled City, the Gatsemani neighbourhood also features numerous beautiful, vibrant, murals that add further charm to the area. Since the area is both smaller and cheaper than the walled city, it is a perfect option for those money conscious travellers.

Cartagena Restaurants

While not entirely sure what to expect, the quality of dining options in Cartagena was definitely a pleasant surprise for me. Since the city is located on the Caribbean coast menus are full of fresh seafood options as well as meat, but prices for delicious, creatively executed dishes felt quiet reasonable.

Carmen - this was the first restaurant we went to during our four days in Cartagena and it may have spoiled me in terms of setting the bar for all other dining experiences while in town. The restaurant itself had beautiful tile floors, a small outside courtyards with tables and chairs, an enclosed bar area, and another enclosed and air conditioned seating area (a refuge for us from Cartagena’s heat and humidity). The restaurant offered contemporary cuisine inspired by local flavours, executed using modern preparations. The meal we had here was unbelievable and the presentation was amazing. If you are looking for a truly elevated dining experience while in Cartagena - this is it! After lunch I read over the menu once more and noticed that a five course tasting menu was available with wine pairing for the equivalent of approximately $110 CAD! For the quality of food and service you are getting that felt like a steal!

Restaurante Candé - Although Carmen was an amazing meal my favourite dish while in Cartagena was actually at a restaurant called Candé. Like Carmen, the cuisine at the restaurant was inspired by traditional Colombian flavours and both the service and presentation were amazing. Here I had the fresh fish cooked in coconut milk and served on a bed of veggies, which was so delicious I couldn’t stop eating it even after I was already full.

Alquimico - While in Cartagena I went out to a bar in the walled city called Alquimico that made delicious cocktails. I absolutely loved the vibe here and they had a DJ spinning everything from Calvin Harris to Lauren Hill. The bar spans over three floors with a rooftop patio at the very top. If you are looking for a cool place to go out at night where both visiting and local young professionals hang out - this is it! I will definitely be taking my friends here when we go, it’s just that cool.

Amazing Hotels In Cartagena

Rooftop Cabana’s at Tcherassi Hotel and Spa

Tcherassi Hotel and Spa - I had the pleasure of staying at this beautiful boutique hotel and spa for the first couple nights of my trip in Cartagena and absolute loved it. Located in a restored colonial building within Cartagena’s walled city the hotel is owned and designed by famous Colombian clothing designer Silvia Tcherasii. Tcherassi Hotel and Spa perfectly combines casual luxury and modern design together to create a beautiful, bright and spacious 42 room boutique hotel. I absolutely loved staying here and I totally recommend it to anyone looking for contemporary accommodations while in Cartagena. The hotel also has a great rooftop pool with a handful of cabanas as well as a bar and restaurant area - all of which offer incredible views of the city, so make sure to check those out. Also breakfast is complimentary with your stay making it even more worth the price tag (starts around $230 CAD a night for a Superior Room).

Hotel Casa San Agustin - On my final night in Cartagena I moved to another hotel called Hotel Casa San Agustin that was actually jaw-droppingly beautiful! Also located in the heart of the walled city this boutique hotel is the ultimate place to stay for those looking for luxury accommodations while in Cartagena. The hotel spread across three exquisitely restored 17th century Colonial homes and is comprised of only 31 rooms. The hotel has a Hammam Spa on site and offers complimentary bicycles, mini bar (replenished daily), breakfast, and cocktails and coffee in the library every day. My room was large and decorated in an authentic Colombian style, which being able to experience even for just one night, made me fall further in love with Colombia, its culture, and all it’s charm. Room rates start at around $500 CAD a night which seems like a pretty hefty price tag if you are travelling solo, but if you are going with a group of 4-5 people you can get a suite for $800-900 CAD a night which can be a more palatable alternative.

Things To Try in Cartagena

Coffee Tasting - Colombia is a huge exporter of Coffee which is why when you are visiting Cartagena (or really anywhere in Colombia) you HAVE TO do a coffee tasting. I did a tasting at Cafe San Alberto which is a satellite store front and cafe for the San Alberto coffee farm located in Buenavista, in the Quindío province of Colombia. During the 40 minute coffee tasting I learned about Colombia’s coffee regions, growing cycle, different coffee taste profiles, and brewing methods. Coffee tastings at Cafe San Alberto cost approximately $50 CAD per person and was definitely a culture experience I was happy I did not skip out on.

Salsa Dancing - One of the funnest activities I did while in Cartagena was Salsa dancing! I am not an experienced dancer but doing a 90 minute beginners class at Crazy Salsa was so fun and went by so fast! They have drop-in classes (schedule available online) for a variety of dances, available at all different levels, and intro classes start at the equivalent of only $11 CAD. The dance studio can accommodate up to 20 people in the largest room, but if you are a beginner looking for a more private lesson or travelling with a group of people, they offer packages to easily accommodated your group’s needs and/or individual skill level.

Sailing - Since you are on the Caribbean coast, getting out on the water is a must. While there we took a boat to checking out one of the islands off the coast of Cartagena called Baru and it was so nice to be on the water. Sunset Sailing Cartagena is a boat rental company I got to experience while in Cartagena and they offer everything from day tours to weekly rentals on beautiful sail boats.

Flying to Cartagena

With flights out of both Montreal Trudeau and Toronto Pearson, Copa Airlines makes travelling to South America easy and affordable for Canadians. I flew Copa Airlines to Colombia via Toronto Pearson and thoroughly enjoyed my inflight experience. The staff were friendly, the plane was on time, the seats were big and comfortable, and the food that was served was actually really good! The best part about flying with Copa Airlines though is their ‘24-hour layover in Panama’ offer that is available at no extra cost - an offer I completely took them up on. If like me, you are interested in visiting not just one but two countries on your next trip to South America, this is the perfect bonus offer for you. Panama has some beautifully renovated boutique hotels and I definitely recommend checking out the old city - a perfectly walkable area with lots of cafe’s, stores and restaurants to keep you entertained during your quick 24 hours visit.


Lady dancing outside the entrance to The Walled City, Cartagena

One thing I am also very happy to report is that Cartagena is very LGBT friendly. If you are traveling with friends who are gay, there are gay bars scattered throughout the city of Cartagena.

In terms of safety, I never felt scared, or threatened, or unsafe while in Cartagena in any way, even at night while out partying.

If you have any questions regarding my trip, please feel free to hit me up in the comment section below. If you are heading to Colombia I hope you have an amazing time and I’d love to hear your feedback on any of the experiences/places I recommend if you do end up trying them yourself! Safe travels!


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Additional Photos From My Trip


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A SLICE OF PARADISE RIGHT HERE IN CANADA - OSOYOOS, BC

View from Painted Rock Winery Tasting Room

It’s kind of crazy for my millennial mind to get around the notion that travelling to faraway places has never been as easy as it is today. As a Canadian my ability to get up and go to another country without restriction is a luxury I fully take for granted. To give you some perspective 36% of American’s hold a valid passport whereas 60% of Canadians have valid passports, making us one of the most well-travelled nations in the world! That said, it has become common place for Canadians to choose to travel abroad instead of visiting beautiful places right on home soil! Crazy right!?


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PLAY: THINGS TO DO IN OSOYOOS

Thankfully I’m here to tell you about a slice of paradise right here at home called Osoyoos, British Columbia. This magical place in my opinion is one of the most underrated destinations for everyone outside of BC. Osoyoos is located 5km from the US border in the interior of beautiful British Columbia and is not only one of the warmest places in Canada, but smack in the middle of BC’s wine country. I was lucky enough to visit this beautiful Okanagan gem last Easter and had the time of my life attending the Osoyoos Oyster Festival, a yearly event to kick off their summer season.

Adding this destination to your bucket list is a must and I’m going to tell you why! Osoyoos has something for everyone. Do you like the outdoors? Cycling, biking, hiking, golfing, horseback riding, wake boarding, water skiing, fishing, boating, skiing, snowboarding, outdoor fitness classes - they have it all. People from British Columbia are some of the most outdoorsy Canadians I have ever met and they have tons of activities to get you out of your resort and into the sunshine where you can enjoy some of the most majestic views of the Okanagan Valley.

On the flip side to its many outdoorsy activities Osoyoos offers so many ways to relax. Their sandy beach, restaurants and wineries are perfect for those who want to spend the day taking it slow and sipping some great BC wines. It’s actually pretty common for people living in the area to spend their days off in the summer slowly drifting down the Okanagan River Channel (located in nearby Penticton) in a tube with a bunch of friends and a cooler full of cold drinks. Now doesn’t that sound like a great way to spend a weekend?!

EAT/DRINK: RESTAURANTS AND WINERIES IN OSOYOOS

One of the biggest draws to visiting Osoyoos is their sprawling fruit orchards and of course their wineries. The Oliver-Osoyoos Winery Association has 39 member wineries and in addition to the wineries in Osoyoos, there are also cideries and distilleries in the area. Exploring some wineries while in Osoyoos is a MUST and can easily be done thanks to organized wine tours like Heatstroke Cycles’ electric bike “Golden Mile Wine Country Tour”. This 4-5 hour leisurely tour takes you to some of the best wineries in the area where you can try some award winning wines. If you are like me and love wine make sure to grab an Oliver Osoyoos Winery Passport before starting your tour so you can collect stamps from each winery to possibly win a case of wine!

With great wine comes great food and restaurants in Osoyoos know how to serve up some great fare. One of my favorite restaurants in Oliver is Miradoro restaurant at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards. This restaurant not only offers great views of the South Okanagan Valley but also mouthwatering dishes. Last time I was there during the Osoyoos Oyster Festival I had the best gnocchi ever! It had Oyster foam with an herb and seaweed sauce - so creative and delicious I would honestly go back just for that. If you are a foodie I definitely recommend making a reservation at Miradoro and trying out some of the great restaurants in the region.


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With over 28 festivals happening throughout the year in Osoyoos there is always something to do. The last two years in a row I have travelled to Osoyoos to attend the Osoyoos Oyster Festival. In terms of variety and bang-for-your-buck two of my favourite events from the Oyster Festival include Walnut Beach Resorts ‘Deep Sea Garden Party’ and the ‘Art of The Pearl Gala’ at Spirit Ridge Resort! Both events offer a huge selection of food vendors, wineries and of course oysters! Shout out to Codfathers Seafood Market for supplying the festival with amazing East and West coast oysters from some of the best farms in Canada. The Walnut Beach Garden party is a fun daytime event that other than the ‘Art of the Pearl Gala’ seems to have the most food and wine vendors along with a good flow of oysters. I’m not someone who likes to wait in long lines so this was a huge plus for me. The ‘Art of the Pearl Gala’ at Spirit Ridge Resort is the big finale event for the Oyster Festival and manyrestaurants in the region participate and go all out creating some pretty crazy and unique dishes for this special event. If you were to go to one event during the Oyster festival the gala at Spirit Ridge would be it! I was so impressed with how many restaurants and wineries participated in the gala, you could spend hours going from station to station tasting and sipping all the delectable offerings. It also had a very good flow so you never had to wait long for food and the supply of oysters seemed endless - which as a foodie is exactly what I wanted!

STAY: OSOYOOS HOTELS, TRANSPORTATION, AND PLACES TO STAY

Traveling to Osoyoos has never been easier thanks to Air Canada and West Jet flying into both Kelowna and Penticton airports. I flew direct out of Toronto and landed in Kelowna BC 4.5 hours later. I like to be mobile so renting a car was the easiest solution for me, but a shuttle service is available from the Kelowna airport thanks to Let’s Go Transportation. The drive from Kelowna to Osoyoos is about 2 hours and it is one of the most beautiful drives I have ever done. The drive from Penticton to Osoyoos is approximately 1 hour. When it comes to Osoyoos hotels and places to stay, there are a variety of accommodation choices to fit anyone’s budget. From the beautiful and luxurious Watermark Beach Resort to the Holiday Inn Hotel & Suites to local camping sites it’s easy to find a place to rest your head that also fits your budget. Whatever your lifestyle it’s about time you start thinking about heading out west and exploring this beautiful country we live in.


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DESTINATION OSOYOOS!!!

This April I went to Osoyoos. Osoyoos is located in the south Okanagan Valley of British Columbia, Canada just 10 KM away from the border of Washington State. The Okanagan Valley is known for its amazing climate. Often the hottest places in Canada in the summer, the climate is ideal for growing grapes and other fruit. Although the resident population of Osoyoos is small the area swells with tourism in the spring and summer as people swarm in to visit the abundant wineries and farm-to-table restaurants.

I put together a travel vlog while I was there this past April! Check it out below!

If you are interested in learning more about any of these businesses or events I encourage you to check out their websites below!

Lake Village Bakery

Osoyoos Oyster Festival

Shucker Paddy

The People's Craft House

Terrafina Restaurant at Hester Creek

Dubh Glas Distillery - Noteworthy Gin

Liquidity Wines

Smoke and Oak Bistro

River Stone Estate Winery

Pig Out

Covert Organic Farms Family Estate

Destination Osoyoos

SPECIAL THANKS TO EVERYONE THAT PARTICIPATED IN THIS VIDEO!


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A TRAVEL GUIDE TO TODOS SANTOS, MEXICO'S BAJA CALIFORNIA

Photo Credit: Louis Wu @ A private Hacienda in Todos Santos, Baja California Mexico

A TRAVEL GUIDE

I recently took a trip to Todos Santos Mexico in January and had an amazing time. It's a quaint little Mexican town full of artists, ex-pats, and hippies free to live their bohemian/low maintenance lifestyles in a small rural city an hour away from the commercialized Cabo San Lucas. Todos Santos has many draws including great beaches and the widely known Hotel California where this year’s Todos Santos Music Festival was held.


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Above Frankie The Band @ Todos Santos Music Festival - January 16 2016

MUSIC FESTIVAL

The Todos Santos Music Festival was created by Peter Buck of REM in 2012 and brought to life by The Hotel California as a way of bringing musicians together to make a difference in the community and support local charities.

BEACHES AND RESTAURANTS

Aside from the music festival the area is full of fun activities! There are both quiet and built-up beaches in and near Todos Santos where you can surf and boogyboard and many pleasant restaurants and cafes in town. There are also local food and artisan markets weekly and at sunset, you can occasionally go see the turtle release.

Above are photos from a turtle release on January 20th 2016

Tortugueros Las Playitas is an environmental conservation with a sea turtle focus whose mission is "to protect, conserve and replenish the fragile marine eco-systems of Baja California Sur, Mexico". On occasion when a nest has hatched they have a free viewing of the release at sunset. You are also able to adopt a nest for $40 USD and contribute to their cause. In exchange, they will send you photos of your nest once it hatches! Cute right!

Aside from the turtle release I recommend you go to La Esquina Cafe - a cute outdoor cafe and popular restaurant in Todos Santos that has a relaxing bohemian feel. Their menu consists of great options from healthy veggie shakes and smoothies to full breakfast and sandwiches all very reasonably priced. I had a breakfast enchilada (seen below) paired with a La Esquina Special (a fresh, local and organic fruit smoothie) which was delicious. On Wednesdays, they host a small outdoor market where locals sell their homemade loaves of bread, artisan leather goods, and even organic pesticides. When I went to the market they had a musician playing live music and people couldn't help but get up and dance while they waited for their breakfast. On Thursday evening they are also known to host a band and although I never had the chance to go I definitely would check it out next time I go back.

Above: Photos from La Esquina Cafe

I was so inspired by all the great food and culture of the area that I took advantage of the local markets and fresh ingredients to cook an authentic Mexican meal! I was able to find fresh chorizo at the market along with zucchini hearts (otherwise known as squash blossoms), fresh fish from the local fisherman and all the citrus fruits your heart could desire. In pursuit of my goal of a home-cooked Mexican-inspired meal, I made chorizo potato tacos with fresh guacamole, fried stuffed zucchini hearts, and fresh traditional Mexican ceviche! Also as a refresher, my friends came up with this delicious 'Mexican Screwdrivier' which had vodka, fresh orange juice, Cointreau, and a splash of fresh pomegranate juice! Perfect for sipping by the pool! All of these delicious dishes, which I encourage you to try making yourself, can be found under the Food & Drink section of my blog!

On top of all the great food, there are some hidden gems that I also want to share with you including this fabulous hidden beach that is so picturesque and great for bodyboarding. Off the highway, down a dirt road, and hidden behind an oasis of palm trees there lies a hidden, remote beach called Los Palmas. It’s a little tricky to get to so ask a local for directions just to be safe. When my friends and I went to this beach for the afternoon there were wild horses grazing along the oasis of palm trees. I do not recommend getting too close as they are wild but please enjoy them from a distance. This beach seemed practically deserted and is a great place to have a romantic picnic or bask in the cool ocean water and hot sun!

Above: Photos from Los Palmas beach just outside Todos Santos, Baja California Mexico.

Before I end this adventure I also have to tell you briefly about three more things! The first is called Tacos El Poblano which was my favorite little Tacoria restaurant in Todos Santos with the best Carne (pork and/or beef) Tacos I have ever had! Not to mention they were so cheap! It doesn't look like much of a spot from the outside but it is well known and loved by the locals. We ordered 40 tacos for our group when we went there and kept having to go back for more!

The second thing, which to be honest will require a bit of luck to find because we literally saw him on the side of the road, is a local Tamale cart! Since we were renting a hacienda close to town, we were told about this guy Tamales from an ex-pat we knew living down the road. She said if we see his cart to pull over and get as many as we can because they are so good and often sell out. So there we were, a week into our vacation coming back from a beautiful day at the beach and there he was with his cart going along the side of the road. Well of course we pulled our rental car over and bought a dozen Tamales. In hindsight, we wish we had bought more because we were unable to ever find him again. The tamales however were SO DELICIOUS! I also think they were less than $1 a piece which is ridiculous! If you happen to see someone with a cart selling tamales I urge you to stop and try one!

The third restaurant in Todos Santos that I wanted to share with you was a small Italian Pizzeria/Cafe called Caffe Todos Santos. I didn't have a chance to actually eat there but the back patio looked very quaint and they had an outdoor pizza oven. I stumbled upon this place while looking for pizza dough and was directed to this cafe by a local artist. I also bought some of their jams while I was there (I thoroughly enjoyed their fig jam) along with some fresh bread and of course the pizza dough. I took a look at their menu which appeared to have both Italian and Mexican dishes and although their prices may have been high for the area I would say they were traditional American standard pricing ($15-$22 for a main).

Above: Me Outside Caffe Todos Santos

Above: Me Outside Caffe Todos Santos

and so now I must go but before I do I will leave you with this....

On a dark desert highway, cool wind in my hair
Warm smell of colitas, rising up through the air
Up ahead in the distance, I saw a shimmering light
My head grew heavy and my sight grew dim
I had to stop for the night

- Hotel California, The Eagles


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