VAMOS COMER: A LISBON FOOD GUIDE!

Me enjoying a glass of rose in the countryrard at Blue Restaurant in Lisbon while I await my dinner

Me enjoying a glass of rose in the countryrard at Blue Restaurant in Lisbon while I await my dinner

The familiar delectable scent of melted cheese filled my nostrils as our server dropped another dish off at our table. We were at Taberna Bairro do Avillez in Lisbon having dinner and although we were only three dishes in, Adam and I were already in foodie heaven.

This past September, my boyfriend Adam and I ventured to Portugal to see if it could live up to its social media hype. One thing that took me by surprise was how much Lisbon had to offer beyond the seductive smell of freshly baked Pastel De Nata (Portuguese Custard Tarts) and the sizzling sounds of succulent Piri-Piri chicken – two popular food highlights.

Adam appeared out of nowhere with this Pineapple drink while we were exploring LX Factory - an outdoor market in Lisbon.

Adam appeared out of nowhere with this Pineapple drink while we were exploring LX Factory - an outdoor market in Lisbon.

Now, it’s not unusual for Adam and I to go all out on food while on vacation and this trip was no different. As a matter of fact, we have the gluttonous habit of following one dinner with another, dubbing the act a ‘bang bang’, LOL! While in Lisbon, not only did we eat at the majority of places on our pre-planned list, but also found a couple new restaurants in Lisbon we added along the way. Needless to say, when Adam and I claim to have ‘eaten our way through Lisbon’, we feel the statement is completely justified.

So here we are, one month post-trip and Adam and I are still talking about our favourite dishes. Together, we compiled the ultimate ‘Lisbon Food Hit List’ of all our favourite restaurants in Lisbon as well as cafes, take-away counters, and bars so that that next time you find yourself in Lisbon you can dine like you’ve got two hollow legs too!


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Inside Taberna Bairro do Avillez - one of the best restaurants in Lisbon

Inside Taberna Bairro do Avillez - one of the best restaurants in Lisbon

- LISBON RESTAURANTS -

Prior to our trip, I had read a lot about Michelin star chef Jose Avillez. Said to be one of the best chefs in Portugal, dining at one of his Lisbon restaurants during our time in in town was an absolute no-brainer. Open for lunch and dinner, Taberna Bairro do Avillez, Jose Avillez’s most casual restaurant offers Portuguese cuisine with an Avillez twist! There wasn’t a dish that Adam and I didn’t like and even though we were full, we could not stop eating. My favourite dish was the Alfachinha with crispy cod topped with garlic mayonnaise and a spicy tomato sauce, while Adam favoured the uniqueness of the octopus in a kimchi sauce, with garlic and sweet potato. Overall, this was both our favourite meal and if you are going to go to one restaurant in Lisbon, this is it!

Hands down my favourite DISH of the entire trip was actually a sweet potato gnocchi I had at my hotel’s restaurant. Recently renovated, Blue Restaurant has a chic, relaxed atmosphere inspired by the city’s blue sky and azure waters. Further, this Lisbon restaurant has the cutest little pink courtyard where Adam and I chose to enjoy our breakfast daily. Although the menu does change, all items on the menu are made of locally-sourced fresh seasonal ingredients to insure the highest quality of flavours. Like I said, my favourite dish from the ENTIRE TRIP was the gnocchi I had here. I tried to go back for it before I left but unfortunately it is only available on their dinner menu (a heartbreaking realization for me). Regardless, if they ever take it off their menu I will cry! Yes, it’s that good

For those interested in learning more about new age Portuguese cuisine, I would definitely recommend a restaurant in Lisbon called Delfina. Tucked in a corner of Praça do Município, inside the Alma Lusa hotel, Delfina is a fine dining yet casual Lisbon restaurant that serves up fresh and seasonal Portuguese-inspired cuisine along with a fabulous selection of local wines. Adam and I ate here on our second night and practically had to roll ourselves home. All the seafood dishes we had including the Bulho Pato clams, sautéed clams in garlic, olive oil and coriander; Fettuccini Alla Pescatore with Bulho Pato shrimp, clams, and mussels; and the Codfish A Brash, a traditional codfish dish with frayed matchstick potatoes and egg, were all exquisite and I unapologetically helped myself to the lions share.

If you don’t eat Piri-Piri chicken while in Portugal, did you even really go? Frangasqueira Nacional is a small restaurant in Lisbon with only a couple seats that, if you aren’t specifically looking for it, you would pass right by. Mostly intended for takeout, this small Lisbon restaurant has an even smaller menu of rice, a few side options and the clear star of the show, spicy Piri-Piri chicken two ways - baked and grilled. Adam and I ordered one of each along with a class of wine and sat at the only table they had outside not talking as we devoured our chicken. We enjoyed our meal here so much that we tried to go back later in our trip, but unfortunately it was closed. This not only checked every box for me when it came to fantastic Piri-Piri experiences, but it was also one of the cheapest meals we had (8€ per person) the entire trip!


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Enjoying a beautiful glass of red Portuguese wine and a charcuterie of meat and cheese from By The Wine in Lisbon

Enjoying a beautiful glass of red Portuguese wine and a charcuterie of meat and cheese from By The Wine in Lisbon

A great find by Adam, By The Wine was a cool wine bar we went to in the Chiado area after dinner one night. The atmosphere was lively and both the light from the restaurant and the groups of people sipping glasses of wine poured out onto the sidewalk. The wine list was (as expected) very extensive and reasonably priced, but the thing that caught us by surprise was their large selection of food offerings. After ordering our wine at the counter, Adam and I watched one chef created a large charcuterie board of Iberian Bellota ham and a selection of cheese followed by a small salmon ceviche dish, all the while growing hungry once more. We didn’t order more food that night but we did come back for a proper experience later on in the trip and highly recommend this Lisbon restaurant be on your list of places to try, or at the very least, to pause and enjoy a glass of wine.

Time Out Market Lisbon

Time Out Market Lisbon

- LISBON FOOD MARKET -

The first place Adam and I checked out while in Lisbon was Time Out Market Lisbon. Essentially a food hall featuring forty of the best restaurants in Lisbon as well as delis, cafes, and food vendors, Time Out Market Lisbon is the perfect one-stop shop for those who want a quick overview of the food in Lisbon. Even though each restaurant can only offer a handful of their signature dishes you don’t feel limited in choices. Adam and I loved having the ability to pick and choose from different stalls and customize our own little lunch menu. In terms of drinks, on top of vendors selling a small selection of alcohol there is a wine shop if you want to buy a bottle or a bar in the middle of the food hall for something more specific. Further, if you are looking for a fun activity to do while in town, cooking classes are also available at Time Out Market Lisbon.

Roman style pizza in Lisbon via Pizzeria Romana Al Taglio

Roman style pizza in Lisbon via Pizzeria Romana Al Taglio

- TAKE AWAY RESTAURANTS IN LISBON -

One take-away restaurant in Lisbon Adam and I quickly became obsessed with was Pizzeria Romana Al Taglio. We had found this small, Roman style pizza shop on our way back downhill from watching the sunset at Castelo De Sao Jorge, and even though we were on our way to dinner, the smell of freshly baked pizza stopped us right in our tracks. “What’s one slice?...” we reasoned with ourselves, “especially if we split it!” And boy did it deliver! With over 10 different styles of pizza to choose from at any given time, all generously dressed with toppings and offering an impeccable combinations of flavours, this little gem hit the spot every time. If you are ever looking for a quick bite of food in Lisbon, cheap snack or are just craving really good pizza, this place is definitely worth seeking out. 

- PASTEL DE NATA CAFES -

A Lisbon food guide would not be complete without a couple Pastel De Nata recommendations and prior to the trip, a friend had recommended Adam and I check out Pastelaria Batalha while in Lisbon. Previously they had done a Pastel De Nata baking class there and said their tarts were some of the best. Eager to sign up ourselves, Adam and I ventured there for a coffee and a tart on our first day in town to see if it lived up to its hype – and it did! Not only did I love the cute cafe vibe it had going on but also the warm and approachable nature the owner had despite having clout as offering one of the best Pastel’s in Lisbon. I guess you can say after our baking class I grew attached to this place and its story. I loved learning about the history of these enchanting treats, what characteristics makes a good one, and how to make them at home, which if you ask me is the best souvenir you could bring home!

By the time Adam and I had got around to finally trying Manteigaria (located across the square from Pastelaria Batalha) we had not only eaten our fair share of these delectable desserts, but learned to make them in our baking class. Having walked by the cafe several times during our visit to Lisbon, I vividly remember my desire on the last day to make sure we tried it before heading to the airport. We still had a couple hours before our flight and the small cafe in Chiado was only a 10 minute walk away. So after quickly organizing our things and dropping our luggage at reception, Adam and I ran up the street for one last tart. The place did not disappoint. As a matter of fact I would say it was the best Pastel De Nata in Lisbon I had eaten. Perfectly cooked with a flaky crust that melted in your mouth along with the sweetest, creamiest, custard filling to compliment it. My only regret was not trying this place sooner.


That’s it! If you have any questions about the food in Lisbon, Lisbon food market or comments/recommendations for restaurants in Lisbon you think should be added to this list, please feel free to hit me up in the comments section below, otherwise VAMOS COMER! I hope you enjoyed the food in Lisbon as much as we did!


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MY MONTALCINO, TUSCANY TRAVEL GUIDE

When I was 5-6 years old my family rented a villa in Montalcino, Italy. Montalcino, if you are not familiar, is a small walled medieval town in the heart of the Tuscany Brunello wine region - an absolute paradise for children and adults alike. The villa we rented was smack in the middle of a vineyard and although I was very little, I still have vivid memories of that summer. When I think back to that summer, I can remember running through the vineyards, stomping on grapes, eating fruit right off the trees, playing in the small square in town, and hearing the church bells ring. I also remember how right before the end of the trip, on the first weekend in September, my mom took us to a medieval festival where the city splits into 4 quarters and competes to win the ‘Gold Lance’. They joust, have archery competitions, have a parade in historical costumes, and at the end of the day lots of culinary meet ups. It was paradise!

Fast forward 20+ years to the present and after coming back from a recent trip down memory lane, I had such a fabulous time re-experiencing Montalcino as an adult. This is why I had to promote this destination and write a little travel guide for anyone going so they can make the most out of their stay. Are you ready for it?!


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STAY

Si Montalcino - this beautiful boutique style villa is the perfect place to stay if you are visiting the region. A less then 5 minute drive to town, the property offers free parking and free breakfast with your stay, a pool, and verandas that look over the Tuscan countryside. Our room was lovely and definitely had some Tuscan charm. The bathroom had been newly renovated in a very clean and modern style. We also had a private terrace where we enjoyed our morning coffee while planning the day’s activities. The staff were very helpful and answered questions to whatever we couldn’t look up using the hotel internet which was one of the best we experienced in Italy. The hotel also has a very friendly, beautiful dog that likes to welcome you back - very quiet and can often be found sunbathing. I highly recommend this place for the location, price, and what it includes. It is well worth every penny. The only thing that I was sad about was that I couldn’t stay longer.

EAT

Drogheria Franci (In Montalcino) - One of the best meals of our entire trip. The carbonara here was unbelievable but I was very satisfied with every dish that was served. The chef puts a modern twist on classic Italian dishes and his deep knowledge of the cuisine and inventive new approaches were executed perfectly. The wait staff is very friendly, speaks english and is very helpful and knowledgable about the menu. There is a wine store that is attached/part of the restaurant so they also have a very deep understanding of wineries in the region. Instead of ordering a bottle for our meal, my boyfriend and I asked our waiter to split us a glass with each plate so we could do parings which ended up working out so much better and came to about the same price as a bottle. You definitely have to eat here so make a reservation ahead of time!

Il Pozzo in San Angelo (15mins drive from Montalcino) - Traditional Tuscan cuisine at its finest! This restaurant was recommended to us by many people including the wait staff at Drogheria Franci. This rustic restaurant was super busy (even for when we went on a Sunday evening) and after tasting their food I could tell why. Tucked into a small corner of the little hilltop town of San Angelo, this restaurant offers a variety of fresh pasta dishes, and is famous for their excellent Steak Florentine. Come hungry because you will want to try everything on the menu and I’m positive you won’t be disappointed.

Latta de Luna in La Pienza (20mins drive from Montalcino) - If you are willing to drive a little further away from Montalcino, you have to visit the town of Pienza. This cute Tuscan town is bigger in size then Montalcino but offers the same kind of medieval charm and architecture with more stores to peruse and restaurants to try. When in town, after enjoying the sites I definitely recommend going to Latta de Luna for a bite. Their menu consists of traditional Tuscan cooking and they are known for their suckling pig which we had and was cooked to perfection. Since we went in September they also had some seasonal offerings including a squash soup which I was in heaven over. Definitely a nice little spot to grab a bite if you are willing to make the trip.

Bruno Dalmazio Wine Store (2mins outside Montalcino) - Montalcino has some of the most amazing sunsets and for us sunset lovers, we wanted to take full advantage. In order to do just that we always made sure to book our dinners 15 minutes after the sunset and arrive 45 minutes early with a bottle of wine we purchased at Bruno Dalmazio so we could enjoy it overlooking the sunset no matter what village/town we were in. With that being said, Bruno Dalmazio has a vast variety of wine at all different price ranges. The staff was very helpful at helping us find a perfect wine for the occasion and within our budget. They also gave us some really nice wine glasses to enhance our experience and a drip stopper so it stays good to the last drop. The best!


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PLAY

Locanda Demetra - This little hill top restaurant that overlooks the vineyards of Montalcino is a local hotspot. They offer lunch and dinner for small groups of max 20 people so if you want to get in, I recommend booking it in advance. Since the restaurant isn’t really in town, you would only really find out about it if it was recommend to you by a local - but its great! The reason why it’s in my ‘play’ vs. ‘eat’ section is because they also offer traditional tuscan cooking classes! For €120 per person, we had a 5 hour class which included a walk around the garden, lessons on pasta making (which included both a with and without egg dough making demo and a lesson on how to make different styles of pasta), a traditional tomato sauce, a tiramisu dessert demo, and a bottle of wine with our meal. After we finished cooking we were then led outside and served the pasta and food we we made while overlooking the countryside and enjoying our bottle of wine. An afternoon well spent and definitely a fun activity to do while on vacation.

Podere La Ripi Winery - Little did we know but going wine tasting in Tuscany is not like going to wineries in Canada. Most tastings are done by appointment only and are often booked weeks, sometimes months in advance. Lucky for us, Podere La Ripi had an opening which we quickly snatched up with excitement. The tasting included a walk through the property and the wine cellar, interesting historic information about the region, and of course a tasting which comes in 3, 5 or 6 tastings. Tasting fees are waived if you spend over €100. The experience was lovely and I learned a lot about what makes a Brunello wine, the region and how it became popular for growing wine, different techniques in planting and growing quality grapes and why everyone is transitioning their properties into biodynamic vineyards.
 
Abbazia Di Sant'Antimo (Abbey) - This former Benedictine Monastery is really close to Podere La Ripi Winery so if you are going there for a tasting this is definitely a beautiful well maintained church and property to check out and take photos on the way. The abbey was original built as a place of refuge for pilgrims on their way to Rome and has since been very well maintained making it a beautiful piece of history to observe


Bon Di Santi Winery - The only reason why this winery is on my list is because it is absolutely stunning. Although this winery is famous for their wine and I would of loved to try them, the €450 price tag for a tasting was way out of my price range not to mention it has to be booked way in advance. It is really close to Montalcino however and you are able to walk around the grounds a little bit which is why I am recommending it. The Cyprus trees that line the entrance driveway make for a beautiful shot and the grounds are so beautifully manicured its worth going for just the photo opportunities.


If you are going to Montalcino, I hope you have a great time and enjoy your stay. If you come back with some of your own recommendations I’d love to hear them so feel free to pop those in the comments below!! If you have any feedback on any of my recommendations as well, I’m interested to hear about other people’s experiences and what they enjoyed/didn’t enjoy. Until next time - Arrivederci!


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