HOW TO MAKE DIY CAFE CURTAINS: EASY TABLECLOTH UPCYCLE TUTORIAL |SOH AT HOME - EP 7

Finally getting the privacy I desired thanks to this recently completed cafe curtain DIY!

* Please Note - Some links in this blog post are affiliate links *

One thing I have always loved about this house is all the natural light. At the front of our house, we have this beautiful large window featuring an original stained glass piece that instantly catches your eye when you walk in. The window fills the room with the most gorgeous light but unfortunately doesn’t do much in the way of providing privacy from passersby while sitting inside, or hiding our unsightly garbage cans we have tucked in the front corner along our side walkway. I thought about hanging some drapes or playing around with window treatments previously while doing my master bedroom makeover, but ultimately decided it would be a shame to hide the beautiful trim and details. Instead, I decided to use an old tablecloth I had lying around and turn it into a cutesy little cafe curtain—a surprisingly super simple sewing project that paid off big time! Not only did I achieve my desired outcome of providing more privacy and hiding my unsightly garbage bins, but it still lets all the natural light into the room while adding to the traditional beauty of the room instead of hiding it.

Step-by-Step DIY Bistro Curtain Tutorial

Materials & Tools Needed

• Fabric or Tablecloth - I can’t remember where I got mine but you can find similar ruffled hem tablecloths on Amazon

• Brass cafe curtain rod & mounting cafe curtain hardware - I got mine from Rejuvenation

• Measuring tape & fabric scissors

• Craft/pattern paper, pencil, paper scissors & ruler

• Sewing machine, pins & thread

• Iron & ironing board

• Small screwdriver or point tuner (for turning ties)

Step by Step Easy Sewing Instructions

Step 1: Draft Your Pattern & Measure Your Window

To ensure your cafe curtains have a relaxed, elegant gather rather than sitting completely taut, you'll want to add extra width to your measurements.

1. Measure Width: Measure your window width and add 6 inches for natural fullness, plus 1 inch for side seam allowances.

2. Measure Height: Determine how high you want your bistro curtain to sit, adding 1 inch of seam allowance to the top edge if using a tablecloth with a finished bottom edge like I did otherwise you’ll want to add another 1 inch of seam allowance at the bottom too.

3. Mark Notch Locations: Mark evenly spaced notches along the top edge of your pattern paper where you want your fabric ties to attach.

4. Draft Tie Patterns: Draft a pattern for your fabric bows/ties. Make the length of your ties at least 16 inches long to ensure you have enough length to tie neat, tidy bows around your cafe curtain pole. The longer you make them the larger the bows can be. I made the width of my ties 1.5 inches with seam allowance.

Pro Tip: When drafting the ties, aim for a 1/4-inch seam allowance rather than 1/2-inch. This gives you a finished 1/2-inch wide tie that is significantly easier to turn right-side out!

View fullsize

View fullsize

Step 2: Cut Out Your Fabric Pieces

1. Main Panel: Lay your pattern on the tablecloth, aligning the bottom edge of your pattern directly with the existing scalloped or flounced tablecloth hem. Cut out the main white cafe curtain panel.

2. Fabric Ties: Fold your remaining fabric over several times and pin the tie pattern on top. Cut out all ties at once (I needed 7 ties but how many you need will depend on your window width)

---

FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM @ISTHATSOH

---

Step 3: Prep and Sew the Fabric Ties

This part of the process makes this DIY one of the easiest sewing projects for elevating your window decor:

1. Stitch the Ties: Fold each tie strip right-sides together and sew down the long side and one short end using a 1/4-inch seam allowance.

2. Turn Right-Side Out: Clip the corner seam allowance, then use a small screwdriver or point turner to push the fabric right-side out.

3. Press & Topstitch: Press each tie flat with an iron. Fold the remaining raw edge inward using a hand needle to tuck it neatly, then topstitch the end closed.

View fullsize

View fullsize

Step 4: Attach Ties to the Curtain Panel

1. Pin each tie along the top edge of your curtain panel at your marked notch locations.

2. Crucial Step: Set the outermost ties back 1 inch from the left and right edges. This ensures they won't get caught in your side hems when you finish the edges later!

3. Baste or stitch the ties into place an inch away from the raw top edge as illustrated in the above photo. The top edge will get rolled in later for a nice finish.

---

ENJOYING THIS CONTENT? CHECK OUT SOME OF MY OTHER EPISODES AND BLOG POSTS!

---

Step 5: Hem the Edges

1. Side Hems: Double-roll the side edges 1/2-inch to conceal the raw fabric edges and topstitch down both sides.

2. Top Hem: Double-roll the top edge 1/2-inch and topstitch across. As you sew along the top, make sure to fold the attached fabric ties out of the way so you don't accidentally catch them in your seam.

View fullsize

View fullsize

Step 6: Install Hardware & Hang

1. Mount your brass cafe curtain rod wherever you want your privacy line to sit.

2. Tie your cafe curtain onto the cafe curtain rod using the attached fabric ties, tying them into sweet, uniform bows.

3. Adjust the gathers so the fabric falls softly across the window evenly.

Whether you call them bistro curtains, cafeteria curtains, or classic cafe curtains, this quick upcycling project gives you maximum privacy while letting all that gorgeous morning light filter into your home!

Thank you so much for joining me today and for checking out my new YouTube series Soh At Home! If you have any questions or comments about how to make DIY cafe curtains, please feel free to leave them below!

Until next time,

- Soheila

MORE BTS PHOTOS FROM THIS EPISODE

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

---

PIN THIS POST

SOH AT HOME - EP 6 - BUILDING THE ULTIMATE BASEMENT: MURPHY BED & MIRROR CUBE DIY (IKEA HACK)

This cool IKEA hack made for a perfect nightstand for my newly finished Murphy bed!

* Please Note - Some links in this blog post are affiliate links *

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: this house is a game of inches. During our recent home renovation, I was constantly trying to maximize functionality without compromising space. Case in point: after underpinning the basement, we were left with a massive concrete bench right in the middle of what would eventually become our home office.

Sure, I could have turned the space above the bench into shelves or extra storage, but with only one guest bedroom in the house (which could quickly become zero if our family grows!), adding another sleeping option took priority. Plus, I’ve always wanted to try a Murphy bed to see if they’re actually as comfortable and convenient as they look.

After the heavy construction wrapped up and our basement renovation was complete, I never quite got around to finishing the Murphy bed unit—until now, when my ADHD brain desperately needed a side quest from the backyard makeover I’m currently in the thick of! Over the past few weeks, I’ve been busy putting on the final touches, figuring out the styling, and hunting for the perfect accessories to make the space both highly functional and beautiful. That includes a killer IKEA hack mirror cube DIY I just finished to use as a nightstand!

BUILDING THE ULTIMATE BASEMENT: MURPHY BED & MIRROR CUBE DIY (IKEA HACK)

Step-by-Step Guide: Building the Mirror Cube Pedestal

Before you dive into this DIY, you’ll need to do some quick math and a little shopping. To build one mirror cube, you will need one small IKEA LACK table and five BLODLÖNN mirrors. Because the mirrors come in packs of four, make sure to grab an extra pack so you aren't left short! While you're on your IKEA run, you’ll also want to hit up your local hardware store for some heavy-duty construction adhesive and painter's tape.

Before using it as my Murphy bed nightstand I experimented with it as a pedestal in my dining room.

Here is exactly how the assembly comes together:

• Prep the Frame: For this build, we are actually only using the legs of the LACK table, so you can set the tabletop aside for another project.

• Secure the Base: Apply your construction adhesive to the first two legs, flip them over, and line them up perfectly with the outer edges of your first mirror pieces. Repeat with a second mirror.

• Build the Box: Stand the legs up, apply glue to the remaining exposed leg sides, and press the next two mirrors into place to form your outer box structure.

• Pro Tip for a Strong Bond: Reach inside the hollow box and gently push the legs outward. This helps spread out that sandwiched adhesive to ensure a really secure, flush bond against the glass.

• Lock It Down: Wrap the corners tightly with painter's tape to keep all the edges perfectly aligned and sturdy while the glue sets.

• Cap the Top: Once the sides are secure, apply adhesive to the top of the legs and drop your final mirror piece into place to seal the cube.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Soh At Home (@sohathome)

View fullsize

View fullsize

When it's done, you'll have a gorgeous, seamless mirror box that is completely hollow on the inside if you flip it upside down. You will want to give these a full 24 hours on a flat surface to cure completely before handling them. To get the perfect, dramatic pedestal height for my Murphy bed nightstand, I repeated this process and stacked four of these finished cubes on top of each other!

I love how versatile this mirrored cube DIY is and how you can easily adjust the height to whatever size you need.

---

FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM @ISTHATSOH

---

Finishing Touches & The Final Look

24 hours later it was time for the best part: styling the space. While I was at IKEA, I also grabbed a handy step stool and some fresh bedding, which I gave a quick wash before setting up the Murphy bed. Once the bed was made, I brought in my newly cured mirror cubes and gave them a thorough cleaning. Let me tell you, it is almost impossible not to get construction adhesive all over your fingers—and the glass—during this DIY! To save the day, I used Krud Kutter and a microfiber cloth to effortlessly cut through the leftover glue, followed by a quick spray of Windex to get that flawless, high-shine finish.

To complete the look, I accessorized the top of my new pedestal nightstand with a classic IKEA FADO globe lamp, a cozy pink candle, and some genius adhesive cable clips I found on Amazon so my phone charger never slides out of reach behind the bed. After weeks of hard work balancing this room with the backyard makeover, it was finally time to sit back, relax, and admire how a few clever inches completely transformed this functional home office into a cool guest room!

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

---

ENJOYING THIS CONTENT? CHECK OUT SOME OF MY OTHER EPISODES AND BLOG POSTS!

---

The Reality of Building a Basement Murphy Bed

Don't let the smooth final look fool you—getting this Murphy bed into our custom cabinetry was a massive game of Tetris. Because we were working with tight basement constraints and that concrete underpinning bench, a standard vertical queen bed was out of the question. Instead, we could only fit a twin-size mattress designed to fold down horizontally.

When I started sourcing the hardware, I nearly choked on the price of professional-grade mechanisms, which clocked in around $3,000. Luckily, I found a highly rated DIY Murphy Bed kit on Amazon for under $300. But fair warning to anyone looking to replicate this: even with a budget-friendly kit, this is not a beginner Sunday afternoon project. It takes some serious carpentry experience to get everything aligned. Honestly, even with a seasoned carpenter on hand, building it into our custom cabinetry was still a challenge.

We had a custom cabinet made for our Murphy bed and even with a seasoned carpenter doing the install, this project was no walk in the park.

Because of our unique space, we also had to make a few major modifications:

• Custom Leg Extensions: The legs that came with the kit were designed for a bed cabinet sitting flat on the floor, not elevated on a concrete bench. We had to get the legs custom-extended to make up the height difference.

• The Leg Storage Compromise: Because of those custom extensions, the kit’s built-in self-storing rotational mechanism no longer worked. The bed is still 100% stable and functional, but we have to manually screw the legs on when the bed is in use and remove them when we store it away.

Is a Horizontal Murphy Bed Actually Worth It?

Since we used a standard, high-quality mattress, it’s incredibly comfortable—though if you’re a particularly tall guest, a twin size might feel a bit tight! For short-term visits, it is absolutely going to come in handy.

The biggest caveat? It is definitely disruptive to my day-to-day workflow. Because of the room layout, my office desk has to be completely moved every single time the bed comes down. But then again, how much work do you really plan on getting done when you have guests in town anyway?

Was all the troubleshooting worth it? Only time will tell, as we haven’t actually had our first official guests test it out yet. But after leaving it sitting on the back burner for so long, it feels incredibly good to finally check this massive project off my list.

Thank you so much for joining me today and for checking out my new YouTube series Soh At Home! If you have any questions or comments about my Murphy bed or mirror cube DIY, please feel free to leave them below!

Until next time,

- Soheila

---

PIN THIS POST

SOH AT HOME - EP 5 - THE SECRET LINEN CLOSET - A HIDDEN DOOR & CUSTOM MIRROR DIY

My secret linen closet is finally complete! I can’t believe how well this custom mirror hides the secret door!

* Please Note - Some links in this blog post are affiliate links *

As with all best-laid plans, this project didn’t actually start as a secret linen closet — it was meant to be a laundry closet. It wasn’t until we began framing out the second floor during our home renovation that we realized the footprint required for laundry was quite a bit larger than expected. When it started to compromise the size and shape of the second bedroom, we knew we had to pivot. By scaling back to a storage closet (or linen closet), we suddenly had a smaller footprint but a much bigger opportunity—and that’s when my creative juices really started to flow.

Following the completion of our home renovation, the linen closet sat as an unfinished cavity for nearly a year. It wasn't until the final stages of my pregnancy that the "nesting" instinct finally took hold, driving me to transform that dead space into something functional. Using leftover shoe mould from the renovation as supports, I installed some basic white melamine shelves and gave it a quick paint job.

Soon after, life and a new baby took priority, and progress on this project once again came to a screeching halt. It wasn’t until almost a year later, when we started finishing the basement, that I felt the spark to pick up where I left off and finish the closet for good.

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

Hidden Door DIY

Since the doorway edges were still unfinished, my first task was installing J-bead to give the opening a clean, presentable look. To hang the door, we chose invisible hinges to ensure our new hollow-core slab door sat completely flush with the wall. These hinges are essential for a seamless 'hidden door' effect because they are mortised directly into the door jambs, disappearing entirely when closed. Unlike traditional hardware, these modern hinges feature a 3D adjustment system, which allows you to fine-tune the height, depth, and side-to-side clearance with a simple hex key. A total lifesaver for achieving those perfectly even gaps around the door edge and give you a true flush finish.

While my carpenter was hanging the door, he also installed a 'push-to-open' magnetic latch. This mechanism helped draw the door securely shut, ensuring the hidden door would function seamlessly once the DIY mirror was attached. To reveal the secret linen closet, all I had to do was give the mirror a gentle push, and open it would pop.

With the door now installed, I primed and painted everything before shifting my focus to the DIY mirror.

View fullsize

View fullsize

DIY Mirror for Secret Door

With mirror measurement in hand I grabbed a roll of gridded craft paper to map out a full scale template. Since the closet door was actually off center, I designed the mirror to be slightly wider to trick the eye and balance the proportions of the wall. With all my pieces mapped out, I hung my design on the door and started to get excited!

Over the next week I managed to thrift a bunch of cheap mirror before heading to Louis’ studio to share my design and ideas with her.

View fullsize

View fullsize

---

FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM @ISTHATSOH

---

Louis cut, polished and laid out all my pieces for my approval. I love the distressed edges of each piece!

You may remember my friend Louis from my home renovation series; she’s the incredibly talented stained glass artist who created the custom piece for my powder room. She recently moved into a beautiful new studio, and it was such a treat to step back into her creative world. We spent time going over every detail, specifically discussing how I wanted the edges of each glass piece to look. A week later, she gave me the call I was waiting for — everything was cut, polished, and ready for pickup. With the pieces in hand, it was finally time to move on to assembly.

View fullsize

View fullsize

While waiting for Louis, I headed to the hardware store for a sheet of DuroSpan. I needed a base for the mirror that was lightweight yet sturdy enough to hold the design without weighing down the door. After cutting the insulation board to size, I peeled back the silver film to expose the foam and began arranging the mirror pieces according to my template. There was something so satisfying about finally seeing the vision come to life as I glued each piece into place with construction adhesive.

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

Feeling proud of my progress, I left the mirror out to show the boys when they got home. In hindsight, I should have anticipated that my toddler would find a large, shiny object on the floor irresistible — which is exactly how he ended up stepping right on it. Thankfully, I was able to carefully remove the broken section with an X-Acto knife. Once Louis cut me a replacement, it tucked perfectly into place, and you’d never even know there was a mishap!

---

ENJOYING THIS CONTENT? CHECK OUT SOME OF MY OTHER EPISODES AND BLOG POSTS!

---

One piece done. One more to go. My first time staining anything!.

While the glue cured on the mirror, I shifted my focus to the frame. I couldn't find the exact moulding I had in mind, so I improvised by staining larger stock pieces and having my carpenter rip them down to the perfect dimensions. This was actually my first time ever staining wood, and looking back, I’m not sure why I was so intimidated! The process was surprisingly straightforward, and the finish turned out exactly how I’d hoped.

View fullsize

View fullsize

Once dry my fine carpenter ripped those pieces down for me and mitered the edges so we could glue and staple them together and into place.

View fullsize

View fullsize

The next week after everything had dried we were ready for install! We added a cleat to the bottom of the door for support and used three different glues to bond the mirror to the door! That sucker is going nowhere! Once the mirror was in position we clamped the mirror to the door to help hold it in place while the glue firmed up.

View fullsize

View fullsize

24 hours later, the clamps could came off and my hidden linen closet would finally be complete!!

My secret linen closet is complete.

View fullsize

View fullsize

View fullsize

Although it took me a long time, I really love how this project turned out. The mirror is so gorgeous and I love how you can see the raw edges of each piece. The mirror’s I had thrifted were all different thicknesses and you can see the depth that gives the mirror when they are scattered throughout. The different green glass hues add further interest and the push-open mechanism worked out perfectly. We did tune up the hidden door hinges after the mirror was attached (told you those 3D adjustment were handy) but I could not be happier or prouder of this DIY!

Thank you so much for joining me today and for checking out my new YouTube series Soh At Home! If you have any questions or comments about this hidden door and custom mirror DIY, please feel free to leave them below.

Until next time,

- Soheila

---

PIN THIS POST

SOH AT HOME - EP 3 - REPLACING MY PAPASAN CHAIR CUSHION - EASY SEWING DIY

I wanted to reproduced the tufted seat cushion on this Papasan chair for my son’s nursery so he can cozy up and read with his stuffed animals

* Please Note - Some links in this blog post are affiliate links *

Easy Sewing DIY - Papasan Chair Cushion Replacement

I have been holding on to this Papasan chair and foot stool since the beginning of our home renovations. Originally given to me by a relative who was downsizing, I thought it would make for the most comfortable reading chair in Cyrus’s nursery once he started moving. I had this vision of him climbing into it with all his stuff animals, sitting in it all cozy, having the time of his life, ‘reading’ books. I knew it had potential to become a furniture piece he could grow with too so I held onto it for almost two years, moving it from one storage spot to another until all my renovations were done. With literally nowhere else to store it I decided it was time to use it as intended. Since the Papsan chair cushion and foot stool had been through an entire renovation, I really wanted to replace both cushions. I never wrapped it up in plastic or protective sheets so it had been exposed to quiet a lot of dust and for my own peace of mind, I thought it would be best (not to mention fun!) to DIY new tufted cushions. As someone who studied fashion design and worked for an upholsterer back in the day, I can confidently say this is great project for beginners and the principles you learn in the below video can be applied to an array DIY sewing projects.

Thankfully my girlfriend Amanda was open to sharing her atelier with me. She an amazing wedding dress designer that I became friends with during my days at Greta Constantine and it was so nice to catch up and spill some tea! It was also so nice to be back in front of a sewing machine. This project definitely brought a flood of memories from my fashion design days and a desire to try more creative sewing projects. It had been over three years since I had sewn anything and two since I got rid of my sewing studio, so it was a nice walk down memory lane.

The original Papasan chair and foot stool cushions I wanted to replace!

Since I had the original cushions all I had to do was deconstruct the old cushion, throwing away the stuffing and using the red fabric as a pattern. Since I did like the original tufted look, I made note of where they were in case I wanted to follow the exact same placement

Once I had completely deconstructed the pillow, I gave it a good ironing, flattening out the seams before pinning it onto two layers of fabric. For the fabric I am using a soft, almost fuzzy, khaki, polyester fabric with some weight and thickness to it.

View fullsize

View fullsize

With that all laid out nicely and the ‘pattern’/ Original cushion fabric pinned on top I could cut my pieces out.

From here, all I had left to do was sew! Remember, good sides should be together, sandwiched on the inside. As I neared the end, I made sure to leave a 10 inches opening so i could later add my stuffing.

I loved being back in front of a sewing machine!

---

FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM @ISTHATSOH

---

After sewing comes tufting but before you do a tufting stitch you want to turned the sewn pieces right side out and give the seams an iron so it helps them sit flat. You wont be able to do this step later after you add a tufting stitch so its important you do it first.

Side bar- I actually stuffed the small foot stool cushion first before doing the tufting stitch but found it very difficult to do the tufting stitch, so later for the large seat cushion, I did all my tufting stitches first before stuffing which made things way easier and definitely the way to go

When it comes to stuffing, I used a hypoallergenic polyester pillow stuffing that I bought 35lbs of (way more than I needed for this project - may have only used half!) from a local supplier. I really wanted the cushion to be that perfect medium, not to soft and not to firm, so I made sure to move the polyester pillow stuffing into all areas, really stuffing it down to create the density I was after.

Once the pillow was completely stuffed and I had achieved my desired density, I could hand stitch the opening close before standing back to admire my work!

View fullsize

View fullsize

---

ENJOYING THIS CONTENT? CHECK OUT SOME OF MY OTHER EPISODES AND BLOG POSTS!

---

Update: Cyrus loves his new reading chair and my vision of him climbing into it with all his stuff animals is now a reality!

Alright friends, thank for joining me for another episode of Soh At Home! I hope you enjoyed this tufted cushion DIY and gave it a thumbs up. If you have any questions about replacing your Papasan Chair Cushion feel free to leave them in the comments below. I did start a new Instagram for my new Soh At Home series, so if you would like to show your support, feel free to give it a follow!

Until next time,

- Soheila

---

PIN THIS POST

SOH AT HOME - EP2 - GOLD FOIL CEILING DIY TUTORIAL

Here I go! Trying something I’ve never done before!

* Please Note - Some links in this blog post are affiliate links *

Gold Foil Ceiling DIY

Prior to starting our basement underpin my husband and I knew we needed a space to gather, relax, watch TV and play with our son. I had already been gathering inspiration for months and was drawn to the idea of designing a space that felt more like a theatre room versus a secondary living room. Given that I live in a 125+ years old Toronto Romanesque Victorian, gold foiling the ceiling just felt appropriate. I knew if I could pull off applying the gold foil, the combination of the cove ceiling and the recessed LED light channel would take the room’s ambience to a whole new level. Still, I had never gold foiled anything before. Intimidated by the idea, I did a lot of research before starting and can thankfully report that there was no need to be. Applying gold foil to the ceiling was super fun, almost meditative and honestly it’s kind of a forgiving DIY material. There is no need to worry about not having lots of experience with this one, just be ready to get covered in glitter after.

Gold Foil Experiment

If you aren’t following me on Instagram you would have totally missed the series of stories I posted this past April of my gold foil experiment. Essentially I had sourced some imitation gold foil from China and had received several gold variation samples to try. Since we were in the process of finishing our basement, I grabbed a left over piece of drywall and over the next two days fixed it up and got it paint ready.

View fullsize

View fullsize

During my research I had noticed a base coat was used in several references. Still I had questions…. If you properly cover the area in foil, is it really necessary? Is a base coat just red paint? What makes it special? So during my sample test I experimented and applied a red base coat to only half of the test piece and although in the end I concluded that there really was no difference from the side that did have a base coat vs the side that didn’t, I did use a base coat on my basement ceiling.

Ultimately my husband reminded me that I was doing this for the first time and this was not the project to skip steps on. LOL! So I did it. Just to be clear though, I do not think a base coat is any different from a water based red paint or is special in any way. Maybe if you are using real gold foil it would be different but for the imitation stuff, I did not notice any difference following my gold foil experiment.

In the end I choose ‘light gold’ for the basement. I knew the LED cove lighting would warm it up so I tried to keep that in mind when visualizing what it would look with the green cabinetry and cream walls. If you are going to attempt to do a room vs an object, I recommend you take the lighting and colour of the room into account because it will have an effect on the foil.

After finishing the ceiling I painted one wall green and noticed it sent an unexpected cast onto the ceiling so I pivoted!

Where To Get Gold Foil Materials

Other than the imitation gold foil which I sourced online from China, all the other materials you need for this DIY you can find at your local sculpture art store and hardware store. You can also find some of them on my Amazon Storefront.

---

FOLLOW ME ON INSTAGRAM @ISTHATSOH

---

Gold Foiling The Ceiling Steps & Tips

Fixed up the drywall edges before starting the foiling process.

Step 1 - Prep your workspace

I know ‘you’re only going to be as good as your base’ so the first thing I did was prep my workspace. The drywall edges along the ceiling cove were rough and had lots of gaping so I used Polyfilla all along the edges, applying it generously with a spatula before wiping all excess away. Once the Polyfilla dried I gave it a quick sand, vacuumed the area and applied a coat of primer.

Tools & Materials Used:

• Polyfilla

• Spatula

• Sanding Paper

• Vacuum

• Basic Primer

• A paint brush

TIP: Cover your floors! I spilled glue a few times during this DIY and was very thankful I had put a protective layer down to protect my new floors.

Applied a red base coat to the entire ceiling

Step 2 - Apply your red base coat

Once my primer was dry I could begin applying my base coat. To do this I used a microfibre roller and rolled it on the entire area.

Tools & Materials Used:

• Gold Foil Base Coat *check can to see if you need to shake it before opening*

• Microfiber Roller

• Paint Tray

• Stir Stick

TIP: Although rolling the base coat on was really easy, I do remember the roller soaked up a lot of product and the biggest size I could find of the base coast was a 32 Oz Quart. I had ordered two cans and just had enough to cover my ceiling. If you are going to do a red base coat my advice is to get more of this product than you need because it doesn’t go as far as you would think. The next two product, the adhesive and sealer, actually do go further but this base coat doesn’t…

Still so suspect about the base coat. LOL

The Metal Leaf Adhesive starts milky and turns clear after an hour

Step 3 - Apply Metal Leaf Adhesive

When the base coat dried completely I could move onto the adhesive. You need to apply the adhesive generously without leaving puddles and wait an hour for it to get tacky. When you first apply the adhesive it will have a milky appearance but as it sets and becomes tacky it will go clear. That is how you know it’s ready for foil.

Tools & Materials Used:

• Gold Foil Adhesive *check can to see if you need to shake it before opening*

• Paint Brush (my preferred) or Roller

• A clean take out food container (I used this to hold and store my glue so I didn’t have to contaminate the can

TIP: Since I could only work on this project during my son’s nap time and in the evenings, I decided to work in three foot by three foot sections. This project did take me a few weeks to complete so instead of covering the entire ceiling in adhesive I would repeat steps three and four each time to ensure my glue was always ‘fresh’ vs covered in dust or debris from being exposed for multiple weeks. If you are working on a smaller area or have more time available to complete your project, you can totally do it in one go otherwise I would suggest doing it in sections like me.

---

ENJOYING THIS CONTENT? CHECK OUT SOME OF MY OTHER EPISODES AND BLOG POSTS!

---

Step 4 - Apply Gold Foil

Once the glue becomes tacky you can start applying the foil. I began in a corner and worked my way across one wall. Anywhere you applied glue, foil will stick to. Getting the hang of applying the foil does take a little bit of practice but after you do one pass it gets a lot easier . Even if you do a terrible job with the first pass, know you can always go over it. That’s what I did after I finishing the whole ceiling. I had perfected the application by the end and went back to that first strip of wall, applied glue, waited an hour, and did the whole section over. You can’t even tell there are two layers of material so don’t worry about getting it perfect.

When applying the foil, the easiest way to do it is to try and overlap the sheets so you know you’re covering everything but since I don’t live in a perfect world where I get the placement right every time, if you do have gaps, you can just take some scrap foil and place it is that area. Foil will stick to anything that has glue on it and any excess will get brushed away so you wont notice the small gaps you covered up with scrap foil in the end.

View fullsize

View fullsize

Every once and awhile I would throw up a laser level just to reset my lines but honestly I didn’t fuss to much about getting them perfectly straight all the time and I don’t think it shows or is even noticeable in the end.

Once I applied foil to the entire section I was working on I would use a wide, flat head brush to push out all the air bubbles before going back in with a small fluffy head brush and gently brush all the excess foil away. This is the super messy bit of the project so be prepared for everything to be covered in glitter.

Tools & Materials Used:

• Gold Foil Sheets

• Wide, Flat head brush

• Small fluffy head brush

TIP: I noticed in the first pass that the foil was very delicate and would get stuck to any small amount of adhesive that was left behind on my hands. To help minimize this I would rub a drop or two of olive oil on my hands after completing step 3 (applying the adhesive). This I found significantly helped make the foil application processes go smoother.

Step 5 - Apply Gold Leaf Sealer

Once I completed the whole ceiling it was time to add our final coat, a sealer. For this I used a foam roller which, not so much that you would notice but did leave some streaks if I look closely. If I could do this part again, I would maybe try a microfiber roller over a foam roller for his application, or maybe do two coats as I only did one, but yea, didn’t love the foam roller for this step.

Tools & Materials Used:

• Metal Leaf Sealer *check can to see if you need to shake it before opening*

• Microfiber Roller

• Paint Tray

View fullsize

View fullsize

Alright friends, thank for joining me for another episode of Soh At Home! I hope you enjoyed this Gold Foil Ceiling DIY tutorial and gave it a thumbs up. If you have any questions about my gold foil ceiling or cove ceiling design feel free to leave them in the comments below. I did start a new Instagram for my new Soh At Home series so if you would like to show your support, feel free to give it a follow!

Until next time,

- Soheila

---

PIN THIS POST