With love from Tofino - A fun afternoon at Cox Bay Beach
Want to hear a crazy story?
The day my friends and I travelled from Victoria to Tofino, British Columbia, the highway flooded! At the time, Vancouver Island and the lower mainland were experiencing an ‘Atmospheric River’ which was causing it to rain like crazy (AND I mean non-stop for the previous 4 days). Although rain is not uncommon for BC in November, the amount of rainfall Vancouver Island and the lower mainland received due to the Atmospheric River was record breaking, causing river levels to increase dramatically and localized flooding to occur.
How people typically drive from Victoria to Tofino BC
Unfortunately for us, this all came to light while sitting in standstill traffic on the highway just 25 minutes outside of Victoria. We had planned to get up early, have breakfast and leave Victoria at 11AM which gave us an estimated arrival time of 3:30-4PM. However, just before 11AM the Malahat flooded and we were stuck. We sat there for 5 hours barley moving. Eventually, we learned they had to shut down the highway and had to make a pivotal choice, roll the dice and attempt another route or turn back defeated.
How we ended up having to drive from Victoria to Tofino BC
Normally, the drive from Victoria to Tofino BC will be around 4.5-5 hours long and take you up the east side of the island through Duncan, Nanaimo, and Port Albernie. But since the Malahat (the 25 km stretch of highway in the Cowichan Valley between Victoria and Duncan) was closed due to flooding we had to take the long way around. In total, we were in the car for over 13 hours. It was madness! The alternative route we ‘rolled the dice’ on took us up the west side of the island before cutting back across to Duncan, and continuing up through Nanaimo and Port Albernie to Tofino British Columbia. This route added an additional 2.5 hours to our journey and since we didn’t start moving again until 4PM, the sun had set and we had to do the whole drive in the dark! I’m talking dark, foreign, winding, one lane roads in the rain!
By the time we finally arrived to our hotel in Tofino, my friend and I had felt like we had gone through battle together. We were exhausted, relieved and elated, and the rest of our trip definitely had an underlying sense of gratitude to it. Our trip to Tofino ended up being totally worth the additional hecticness and over the next few days we took full advantage of our time there, getting up early to do some hikes, exploring beaches, checking out restaurants and discovering everything the area had to offer.
If you are planning a trip to Tofino, British Columbia make sure to check out my list of recommendations below so you too can make the most of your time in this easy going and playful Vancouver Island town.
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Tofino Resort and Marina offers guest safe harbor to enjoy Tofino’s purifying coastal air, abundant wild life and never ending adventure opportunities.
TOFINO RESORT AND MARINA
Our refuge after the grueling drive and stomping ground during our three night stay was none other than Tofino Resort and Marina. I first heard about this newly opened resort (opened in the summer of 2017) over a year ago. Rumor has it that the place used to be pretty run down and their restaurant was actually the dive bar in town. But looking at it now you wouldn’t know it as the 63 room hotel and marina has been completely renovated and the resort outfitted with a new designated Adventure Centre, a state-of-the-art gym, full service marina, and two new restaurants - 1909 Kitchen and The Hatch Waterfront Pub.
If you are looking to explore Tofino beyond the beaches, Tofino Resort and Marina’s Adventure Centre has you covered with an incredible selection of activities and courses like guided fishing, whale watching, wildlife tours, paddle boarding tours, and Maquinna Marine Provincial Park Tofino Hot Springs Cove tours*!
*During COVID the Tofino Hot Springs (Hot Spring Cove) closed but will be reinstated so check back for future updates!
- Good news! The Tofino Hot Springs (Hot Spring Cove) is now open to the public again! (updated Oct 5 2022)
Since opening, 1909 Kitchen and The Hatch Waterfront Pub have become local favourites. While exploring the many shops in town, several people we spoke with recommended we eat there and commented on how great their brunch was, and how beautiful their waterfront patio and dining room is with views of the mountains. I particularly loved their fresh seafood offerings, use of local seasonal forged ingredients, and well rounded menu selection. Highlights from our meal included the Outlandish Raw Oysters, Kale Salad and Wagyu Flank!
Three additional things I loved about this place were 1) it was clean, 2) my bed was so comfy and, 3) you could walk to town in 5 minutes, which meant you were close to so many of the best restaurants in Tofino including cafe’s, boutiques and more! We were also right on the water so if you wanted to come by boat (I would love to sail up the west coast one day) or gather your best mates for the ultimate pacific salmon fishing trip, it’s the perfect spot to refuel and recharge.
Suite with King Bed at Tofino Resort and Marina, Tofino BC
LOVE THE WEST COAST? CHECK OUT THESE OTHER TRAVEL GUIDES!
TOFINO RESTAURANTS
Dinner at Shelter Restaurant in Tofino BC
Located just down the street from Tofino Resort and Marina, Shelter Restaurant uses an array of fresh and local ingredients to create dishes that embody the essence of Tofino. My friends and I grabbed dinner at Shelter on our first night and were blown away by how delicious the food was at this Tofino restaurant. Highlights of our meal included the Crispy Brussel Sprouts (unlike any other I have ever tasted), the Farmhouse Chicken Burger, and Steak Frites with Chimichurri.
Hot Tip: This Tofino restaurant does get packed so make sure to call ahead and make a reservation or go early and put your name down before walking around town so you don’t have to sit outside and wait.
The little food truck that started it all! Tacofino’s first location at the back of Live to Surf Parking Lot In Tofino BC
The little food truck that started it all, Tacofino’s first location at the back of the Live To Surf Parking Lot still continues to draw a crowd and is definitely a must when in Tofino. Serving delicious tacos (vegan and vegetarian options available), burritos and gringas, this legendary orange food truck has been a favourite for locals and visitors since 2009. The Tuna Ta Taco and Fish Taco are menu favourites as well as the Krispy Chicken Taco, but you really can’t go wrong when ordering anything on their menu.
Dinner at 1909 Kitchen in Tofino British Columbia
Even if you don’t stay at Tofino Resort and Marina, a visit to 1909 Kitchen should still be on your itinerary. Not only are the views amazing, but their cocktail and food menus are too. If you’re in Tofino in the summer they also have a great waterfront patio with views of the mountains. Many people we met also recommended this Tofino restaurant for brunch, but the dinner we enjoyed there was definitely one of the best meals we had.
We found a tiny French patisserie called Ouest Artisan Patisserie while exploring Tofino BC
We stumbled upon Ouest Artisan Patisserie one morning while exploring town and had to stop and check it out. Located in a tiny shipping container at the end of Campbell Street (220 Campbell Street) this traditional French patisserie offers freshly made croissants, breads, sandwiches, and pastries daily as well as beautiful custom wedding cakes, macarons and artisan chocolates. My friend ordered one of their croissant breakfast sandwiches to enjoy while we walked around checking out the other container vendors/stores and the amount of noise he made to show his enjoyment while eating was enough to get my own stomach growling.
Erica and I grabbed two Americano’s from Rhino Coffee House every morning while in Tofino, British Columbia
Every morning in Tofino we would stop in at Rhino Coffee House to grab coffee and treats. Known for their fresh daily donuts and roasting their own beans, Rhino Coffee House quickly became our go to morning spot while in Tofino. Their Americanos were just the caffeine fix I needed to get the day started and I wasn’t alone. This place was always busy and you could tell that many locals like to gather outside chatting over coffee with their neighbours while walking the dog. It was cute and totally encapsulated the ‘Tofino lifestyle’.
TOFINO BEACHES & THINGS TO DO IN TOFINO
If you are looking for fun things to do in Tofino there is definitely no shortage. Known for it’s incredible surfing, visiting one of Tofino’s gorgeous beaches is definitely part of the draw. Even if you have no intention of surfing, spending the afternoon walking along the beach and watching the surfers or sunbathing is must. There are also some great local, family friendly hikes and adventures to do in the area, a few of which I did myself and am happy to recommend below!
Captured a surfer heading out for a rip at sunset on Long Beach in Tofino British Columbia
Probably the most famous beach in all of Tofino is Long Beach, where you will see lots of local surfers doing their thing. This 16km stretch of beach represents the longest beach on Vancouver Island and has a vibrant, storied, surf history. Known for being a great place to watch a dramatic winter storm or spot a gray and humpback whale during their migration, Long Beach has been attracting visitors to Tofino for decades. While in Tofino BC, the gang and I took the drive to Long Beach hoping to watch an amazing sunset and we were not disappointed. We ended up arriving 45 minutes prior to sunset and spending a lot of time walking around taking photos. The lighting was so beautiful at this time of day that I ended up taking some amazing shots of wildlife and surf. If there is one beach you can’t miss, it’s this one.
Friendly Reminder: Since Long Beach is located in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve remember that droning is not allowed and parking is strictly monitored so don’t forget to pay the fee!
Another great and popular beach to visit is Cox Bay Beach. Surrounded on one side by cliffs, a lot of people who visit Cox Bay Beach will also do the unmarked hike to Cox Bay Lookout, a 2.6 kilometer trail that under normal conditions would be considered moderate. Unfortunately for us, the recent rains had made the trail quite muddy and since the trail is not maintained, I highly recommend you wear hiking boots. The reward of course is a beautiful view of Cox Bay Beach and of the open ocean but take care getting up and down as it can get very slippery, especially going down.
Erica at Tonquin Beach, the first of three beachs we came across while on the Tonquin Trail.
On our first morning in Tofino, British Columbia, my friend Erica took me to do the Tonquin Trail. This short, 2 mile trail seemed to be a popular trail for locals with dogs (almost everyone we saw had one). Perhaps that’s because it’s so conveniently located close to town or maybe because the trail itself is super easy and quite beautiful. Erica and I were able to do the entire loop in about an hour and a half (we stopped a lot to take photos) and found the trail takes you along the Pacific coastline through rainforests and along rugged cliffs and boardwalks that led to get vantages points. Additionally it also connects three beaches together Tonquin Beach, Third Beach and Middle Beach, so it’s an easy way to see all three with one short walk/easy hike.
South Beach, one of the two beaches you can explore while on the Nuu-Chah-Nulth and South Beach Trail
A great family friendly trail that Erica took me on was the Nuu-Chah-Nulth and South Beach Trail. Apparently as a child Erica did this trail with her dad and to this day still has very fond memories of her experience. The 6.4 km trail is very easy with elevated boardwalks that take you through old growth forests with lush vegetation to two well know beaches, South Beach and Wikaninnish Beach. Known for its large rock formations, South Beach is a pebbled beach with rolling foamy waves. If you’re visiting during storm watching season, be careful of powerful waves and ocean spray!
My favourite beach of all the Tofino beaches was definite Mackenzie Beach. This beach is a little more sheltered than the rest thanks to its large tidal rocks. As a result, the water is calmer than the others with gentle waves suitable for skim boarding, stand up paddle boarding or small children. It also happens to be one of the only beaches we visited that was not in the National Park so I was finally able to take out my drone and ended up capturing some great footage. Beach access is available to everyone, even if you are not staying at one of the properties that line the beach. Everyone is welcome, just parking might be hard.
Unfortunately, when I was in Tofino the Tofino Hot Springs were closed and I was unable to do the tour offered through Tofino Resort and Marina’s Adventure Centre. However, the Adventure Center did mention that they are planning to reinstate the Tofino Hot Springs tour once the Ahousaht First Nation and the Hesquiaht First Nation grant access to Hot Spring Cove again (access was restricted due to concerns regarding the spread of COVID-19 to the Hesquiaht First Nation village in Hot Springs Cove). This was definitely something I was looking forward to doing while in Tofino BC but alas, I understand the reasons why. Regardless, I recommend checking back for updates on whether it’s been reopened because it’s something I totally plan on doing the next time I’m in Tofino, British Columbia.
TOFINO MAP
Check out this Tofino map which shows where all the above recommendations are in relation to the Tofino Resort and Marina!
GETTING FROM VICTORIA TO TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Image credit to TourimsTofino.com
The easiest way to get around the island is definitely to drive and under normal conditions the 317.3 km drive from Victoria to Tofino British Columbia should take you under 5 hours to complete if you don’t stop.
Alternatively, there is a ferry that you can take part way from Victoria to Swarts Bay terminal, but it doesn’t save you time or get you far enough to make a substantial dent so it’s not really a good option.
If you don’t have a car you can also take the Tofino Bus offered by the Tofino Bus Company that services both north bound and south bound daily. Fare for adults start at $102.83 whereas youths between 12-17 are $72 and Children 2-11 are $52. The bus does pick up from various points around Victoria including the Victoria main bus depot (departure is at 9:45AM) so check their website to see what the closest pick up point to you is. There are also four main drop off locations in Tofino so be sure to pick the one closest to where you are staying.
GETTING FROM VANCOUVER TO TOFINO, BRITISH COLUMBIA
Getting from Vancouver to Tofino isn’t hard, it just takes some preparation. There are flights offered by Pacific Coastal Airlines and Harbour Air Sea Planes that can take you right from Vancouver to Tofino in 45 minutes. Additionally you can do a ‘drive and fly’ combo by flying from Vancouver to Victoria, Nanaimo or Comox and drive the rest of the way.
Image credit to TourimsTofino.com
If you don’t feel like flying, BC Ferries also offers numerous ferries from Vancouver to Vancouver Island. Your three options for taking the ferry include:
Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay: Horseshoe Bay terminal is located just north of Vancouver and arrives to Nanaimo’s Departure Bay in just under 2 hours.
Tsawwassen to Duke Point: Located just south of Vancouver close to the USA border, the Tsawwassen terminal ferry takes you to Duke Point terminal, about 15 minutes south of Nanaimo, in approximately 2.5 hours.
Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay: Leaving from the same mainland terminal as above, the Swartz Bay terminal ferry takes approximately 2 hours and drops you off 30 minutes north of Victoria.
For more information visit https://www.bcferries.com
Further, if you don’t have a car and don’t want to fly from Vancouver to Tofino, you can also take the ferry to Vancouver Island and then jump on the Tofino Bus. I would just do the extra research to make sure you line up the timing correctly so you don’t get stuck mid transit.
Well there you have it! Another great trip in the books for me and another slew of recommendations for you! If you are heading to Tofino soon I hope you have a great trip and feel free to come back and share your recommendations with me too! I’m always looking for an excuse to go back! Until then, safe travels!
A big thank you to Tofino Resort and Marina for hosting us and partnering with me on this post. As always, all opinions remain my own!
