We had been on the boat for less than 10 minutes when we saw it, a small batch of mist straight ahead. Then moments later another small batch of mist right beside it. “Whales!” Jamie shouted steering the boat towards the direction of the mist. “Looks like there’s a few of them!” he exclaimed as we waited with anticipation for them to again reveal themselves.
This was my fiancé and I’s second time in Powell River, BC. The first was after Adam’s cousin’s wedding when we had made sure to tack on an extra 4 days to hang with his west coast family at their place up the coast in Powell River. We love Adam’s west coast family. We travel with them all the time and even did an epic Christmas trip to Kona, Hawaii together! There are usually 12-13 of us when we get together so I’m not even bragging when I say we literally bring the party to wherever we go. Anyhow, after our last short trip, we quickly realized 4 days in Powell River was certainly not enough, so we instantly made a pack to go back – this time for longer!
At this point, when we saw the whales, we were almost halfway through our 10 day trip. Adam and I had requested that we repeat the day spent Chinook salmon fishing on Jamie’s boat to see if we could get as lucky as our first time around! It had been a while since I had fished and my experience from our last trip was one of the biggest highlights of our time in Powell River British Columbia. One that kept us all fed for days, but hungry for more! Now, having seen whales, I knew luck was on our side.
As it turns out (and to nobody’s surprise), our second trip to Powell River 100% surpassed the first. We did all our favourite things again and added so much more to our list of highlights! Having arrived back home to Toronto, I am now processing through some serous withdrawals and thought I’d share this blog post with you.
If you live on the west coast, are looking for a little road trip getaway, love hiking and camping, or just have a chance to go to Powell River, BC, I cannot recommend it more. Adam and I enjoyed our time there so much that we have made a pack to return every summer!
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Getting To Powell River, B.C
There are really only two practical ways to get to Powell River. Fly or drive.
Pacific Coastal Airlines flies 4 times a day from Vancouver International Airport (YVR) South Terminal to Powell River Airport (YPW) which is located only a few minutes from town. Adam and I have flown out of Powell River both times we went, but really enjoyed the drive and ferry ride up, and since the west coast family was waiting for us at their house in Vancouver, we went that route again the second time!
View from the ferry leaving Vancouvers Horseshoe Bay Ferry Terminal
In total it can take about 5 hours to get from Vancouver to Powell River, BC and there are actually two BC Ferries you need to take. The first leaves Vancouver out of Horseshoe Bay Ferry Terminal and brings you to your first stop an hour away on British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast - Langdale! Located just outside the town of Gibson, there are a few great pit stops to make in the area surrounding the Langdale ferry terminal let alone the entire way up the Sunshine Coast to Powell River.
One pit stop I highly recommend is Persephony Brewing Company where you can sit outside in their garden and enjoy a flight of beer. Hungry? Further up the road, before you hop on your next ferry, I recommend grabbing a bite at Ruby Lake Resort’s La Trattoria Italiana! Chef Aldo specialized in classic northern Italian cuisine using ocean wise seafood, wild game, and farm to table produce grown on site. The food is lovely and best enjoyed on their covered outdoor patio looking over Ruby Lake.
The drive between Langdale and Earls Cove Ferry Terminal (where you will catch your second ferry) is about 1.5 hours, so if you plan on including a few pit stops along the way, factor that time in when organizing your Powell River ferry schedule or you may miss it! Adam’s family have had many experiences missing the ferry to Powell River or arriving to close to departure only to find out the ferry is already at capacity. It’s annoying so I recommend erring on the side of caution or at the very least booking yourself a geodesic dome at Back Eddy Resort & Marina to take advantage of a unique local glamping experience a short 15 min drive from Earls Cove Ferry Terminal.
One of the geodesic domes at Back Eddy Resort & Marina
Things To do In Powell River - Hiking!
One thing that attracts adventure seekers to Powell River is the Sunshine Coast Trail. Stretching from Sarah Point in Desolation Sound, across Powell River, and all the way down to Saltery Bay, the Sunshine Coast Trail in British Columbia is Canada’s longest hut-to-hut hiking trail and spans 180 km in length. From coastal shorelines, to old growth forest trails and panoramic mountaintops, Powell River and the Sunshine Coast Trail offers some great local hiking! Not to mention there are numerous trail access points which make it easy to break up the trail into single day hikes versus investing a week or two to reach all 14 huts and complete the trail.
The Sunshine Coast Trail Map - Click to be redirected to more detailed/larger map
An important thing to note when hiking in and around Powell River is that the town is and has historically always been a logging town (prior to it being taken from the local aboriginal tribes of course). That means that a lot of the back roads going up the mountain and around the area – some of which you will take to get to the trailheads I’m going to mention and Sunshine Coast Trail access points – are logging roads. This mean certain precautions need to be taken when using them during hours of operation. For one, forestry companies hours of operations are typically Monday to Friday (excl. holidays) from 5am to 6pm. It is important to be mindful of logging traffic and signage when driving on logging roads and if you have a radio use it! Logging trucks are supposed to listen to calls on the radio so they know if people are on the roads ahead and can slow down. The last thing you want is to be on a narrow gravel logging road with a loaded logging truck barreling down the mountain straight at you. It has happened in the past, many years ago and let’s just say it’s a tragic story with a not so happy ending.
If you are going to do only one hike while in Powell River, I would recommend doing the Tin Hat Mountain hike. It’s an hour grind to get all the way to the top (or longer depending on which trailhead you start at), but the views of Powell Lake are incredible. Since Tin Hat is part of the Sunshine Coast Trail you will most likely run into a few other hikers throughout the day and get to check out one of the huts on the trail! I made sure to bring my drone along with me for this hike and took some pretty amazing videos to commemorate my triumph of completing the hike.
If you are looking for something off the logging roads and not so intense, check out the Eagle River pools. Tucked away just off the Sunshine Coast Highway and only a 10 minute ‘hike’ in, here you will find a section of Eagle River with freshwater pools that cascade one into the next leading you all the way to the ocean. Here, near the entrance of the pools you will also find a 30 foot waterfall and lots of cliff faces and boulders to jump in the water from!
The Waterfall at Eagle River
Also off the Sunshine Coast Highway and close to the Eagle River Pools is Stillwater Bluffs. The Stillwater Bluff hike is around 1.5 hours all the way around, and is a great way to experience the coastal shorelines and enjoy a swim in the ocean. The trailhead does start on private property so if you go, make sure to park close to the main road and walk in. Auntie Linda told me last time she did this section of coastline by kayak, a whale came into the bay and started playing right in front of her!
A sailboat I saw parked in a bay while on the Mowet Bay to Haywire Bay Campground trail
Mowat Bay to Haywire Bay Campground is another great local hike that takes about 2-2.5 hours one way and ends at a pretty nice sandy beach at Haywire Bay Campground! The first 10-20 minutes are a bit of a grind starting out of Mowat Bay so it’s a pretty good workout as well as a beautiful hike through the forest. We stopped to swim halfway through and found some logs near the shore that Adam and his cousin used as floaties to enjoy a cold beer on. This was definitely one of my favourite hiking days of our trip, but I would be remiss if I didn’t give some credit to the people I was with for making it so awesome. If you are looking to go camping in Powell River Haywire Bay Campground is a popular spot for that as well and accomodates everything from small tents to big RV’s
The first section of the Sunshine Coast Trail starts almost immediately at the Saltery Bay Ferry Terminal (where the second ferry drops you off) and goes along the water passing by Pirates Cove. The worst part of the hike is a 15 minute grind that starts 1/4 of the way into the hike known as the ‘escalator’ but after you complete that portion it’s not so bad. I really enjoyed this hike when we went because it was late July/early August and we were just at the beginning of wild blackberry season! The trail is lined with so many wild blackberry bushes and we were just picking them right off the bushes and plopping them into our mouths at numerous spots which definitely made this trail so fun and amazing.
If you want to start off with a baby hike (we literally took a baby on these two hikes with us) I would recommend doing the Lang Creek trail or Blackwater Creek trail. Both trails take about 1.5 hours to complete and are mostly shaded. The Lang Creek trail ends at a small waterfall with a big pool where you can swim whereas the Blackwater/Aloha Trail hike features a BYOB Tiki Bar setup in the woods where you can stop, take a break and enjoy a cold beverage along with Kelly Falls – a well know waterfall in the area. Unfortunately when we were in BC there was a heat wave and Kelly Falls felt more like a small stream or trickle versus its usual robust waterfall self. But I blame the season and weather for that since the cousins did it the previous fall/winter and said it was amazing.
Lang Creek Trail Waterfall & Swimming Pool
Other Fun Things to do in Powell River
If you are in Power River and you aren’t thinking of salmon fishing, you’re not taking full advantage of all that BC has to offer. Powell River is especially known for their bountiful Chinook and Coho Salmon so if you want to enjoy the freshest fish you can possibly get, this is your chance!
Both times we were in Powell River we were able to enjoy a day of fishing on cousin Jamie’s boat and I have to say, being on the water, especially for an afternoon session of fishing when we saw the whales, was incredible. We stayed out until just after 9PM fishing, drinking and snacking with family during sunset. It was amazing!
Unfortunately, cousin Jamie doesn’t offer fishing trips to the general public but there are plenty of companies that do. One local company that I found during a quick google search was a company called Chromer Sports Fishing that offers year round fishing, although May - September are the best months to go since the weather is warm and the water becomes very calm, almost glass like.
Another great activity to do in Powell River is biking! There are tons of dirt biking, mountain biking and leisurely biking trails all over the area that offer endless hours of entertainment. During our most recent trip, a large group of us did the super easy 13 Km bike trail that loops around Inland Lake. The circuit includes boardwalks, bridges, and a crushed limestone path, and can be completed in less than an hour by bike. Although relatively flat, this bike trail does offer some great viewpoints with picnic benches and pit stops with small beaches that I encourage you to enjoy. If you want to do it up like a local, make sure to wear your swimsuit and pack some cold bevies to enjoy in the water along the way!
One of my fiancé’s favourite things to do while in Powell River is Zunga! Never heard of Zunga before? It’s when a rope is tied to a tree branch and people use it to swing themselves off a ledge and into the water Tarzan style! It’s super fun and apparently the word ‘Zunga’ originated in Powell River!
Anyhow, there is a super cool spot that we like to go to off a logging road up Lois River where you can find the Zunga ropes. Hiking in can be a little tricky but should take only 10-15 minutes tops. Last time I was there I made sure to drop a pin so I can show you on the map where it is but essentially, it’s up Stillwater Mainline off of the Sunshine Coast Highway between Lang Bay and Stillwater Bay, and you can park on the side of the road close to a bridge (you should see an alcove used for parking by locals).
Park at the big pin and hike to the small pin for Zunga! Here is the Latitiude (49.78477) and Longitude (-124.335987) for Zunga (small pin)
If you are going to go to the Zunga pools, you may as well also stop by Ed’s U-Pick organic blueberry farm in Lang Bay after! Located south of the Sunshine Coast Highway (or towards the water) off of Lang Bay Road, this little u-pick farm has numerous species of blueberries to enjoy. Keep in mind blueberry season usually starts mid to end of July and continues into the beginning of August!
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Known as ‘The Hawaii of the North’, I also recommend doing a day trip to Savary Island. Located in the northern part of the Strait of Georgia, about a 15-20 minute water taxi ride from the town of Lund (just up from Powell River), Savary offers beautiful white sand beaches, warm waters, rustic lodging and is a popular cottaging spot for Vancouverites. During our most recent trip, a large group of us booked water taxi tickets and made the journey over to Savary. One of Adam’s cousins friends recently bought a small motel on the island called The Savory Island Resort and recommended we hang out on ‘South Beach’ which is exactly what we did. One thing I loved about South Beach was that the water is really shallow and the beach itself has all these small ‘shelters’ build from driftwood that have washed up on shore. The beach is also up against a pretty steep cliff which made me feel like I was in a different part of the world entirely… like Portugal! Anyhow, if you are thinking of going to Savary (which I highly recommend you do) pack a big cooler of supplies because you’re going to need it since there isn’t really ‘shops’ to grab things from. Also, if you go to Lund a little early to catch your water taxi, you can stop by Nancy’s Bakery which offer delicious baked good and breakfast sandwiches!
South Beach - Savary Island, British Columbia
Since whales like to migrate along the Sunshine Coast to their feeding grounds, whale watching is also a popular activity when in Powell River. Resident orcas come through at all times of the year, but humpbacks are usually seen arriving in the early summer months every year, and often stay until the fall. It is not uncommon to see the whales spouting at the surface, breaching, or feeding in the waters just off the shore of Powell River since the water is very calm compared to the open ocean on the west side of Vancouver Island. Although I am not sure if there are any companies in Powell River that offer whale watching tours, most people see whales and creatures of the sea from the shore or while fishing.
Restaurants in Powell River
If you are looking to enjoy some delicious Italian food while in Powell River, I highly recommend a lovely little modern Italian restaurant called Culaccino! The first time I went to Powell River I saw some of their delicious menu items pop up only Instagram and instantly made a reservation for the entire family! Dishes run from $10-30 on average and all their pastas are handmade daily, in house. Literally, everything is good here! We were a group of 10 that shared all our dishes so trust me when I say we tried basically the entire menu!
Sister restaurant to Culaccino is Coastal Cookery, a casual dining restaurant in the heart of Powell River serving up delicious Canadian fare. We enjoyed dinner on their back patio after our bike ride around Inland Lake and thoroughly enjoyed sipping on their delicious libations (especially the Silver Empress Sour) and enjoyed eating everything from their Ahi Tuna Stack to Humboldt Calamari, and Cookery Chop Salad. If you are looking for a casual place with a nice patio to watch the sunset from, you should 100% check this place out!
If you are looking to just grab something quick to take away and maybe cook in your Airbnb or at a campsite, you may also want to check out a local butcher/small grocer called Chopping Block. They have a large selection of meat and fish products to choose from as well as locally grown produce, an assortment of fancy cheeses and specialty items. While in town we always like to stop by there and pick up some pepperoni sticks, cheese and meat to eat throughout the week. If you are looking for specialty cuts of meat or want something beyond the basics, then this is the spot!
Although they don’t serve food, my recommendations wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Townsite Brewing! They are an award winning coastal microbrewery that offers tasting in house and my fiancé is obsessed with their Zunga Golden Blonde Ale. It is really too bad we can’t get their Belgian style beer in Ontario because it’s really good!
Accommodations in Powell River
Adam’s West coast family has a beautiful spot in Lang Bay just outside Powell River, but there are plenty of small accommodation options and Airbnb’s in the area. Here are a few options I recently found that are just up the coast!
